Hiunchuli Peak Climbing

Trip Overview

Hiunchuli Peak standing at height of 6434 metres, located in the Annapurna range like other two peaks Tharpu Chuli and Singu Chuli which is considered as a sacred mountain of Gurung ethnic and it is one of the difficult peak climbing’s in Nepal. It can be climbed from southeast face and northwest face as well. This is not so difficult technically but there is still danger of rock falling. The trekking trail passes through steep and dense bamboo forest, menaced by unseen dangers of the hanging glaciers. From the north, the mountain rises steeply above the moraines of the Annapurna South Glacier in a series of shabby buttresses and an ill-defined and complicated North Ridge. These in turn lead to a final triangle of fluted ice that forms the summit. The summit is bounded on the east by a ridge that rises in an icy parabola, from which a steep couloirs descends towards the moraines above the lodges at base camp. Considered as one of the most complex climbs, the trek to the Hiunchuli Peak requires excellent technical and experience. Hiunchuli Peak was first climbed in October 1971 by an expedition led by the USA Peace Corps volunteer Craig Anderson.

Climbing Route
South-east Face: From Annapurna Base Camp cross two glaciers insight of east face. There is potential icefall danger from these glaciers. Climb a rock wall and sight camp one place on the glacier at 4700m.

Camp 01: cross the Glacier running due-east to a rock wall and climb this at its lowest point on good rock. In fact, it is possible to climb the rock wall by a couloirs line (600ft). That split it, running diagonally left to right. Near the top of the couloirs traverse, left in to shorter couloirs that is followed to the upper snow slope where we put the Camp two at (5334m.).

Camp 02: Cross the large snow basin that leads to the foot of a hanging glacier and camp 3.
Camp 03: Climb up a narrow avalanche chute to the base of a hanging Glacier. Traverse left under the hanging glacier to easier slopes on its left -hand side snow slopes above the climbed to the site of Camp 4 at (6096m.), beneath a large crevasse. Cross the bergschrund to easier snow slopes which in turn lead to the final ridge. Follow this ridge to the top descend same way.

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