Hiunchuli Peak standing at height of 6,434 metres, located in the Annapurna range like other two peaks Tharpu Chuli and Singu Chuli which is considered as a sacred mountain of Gurung ethnic and it is one of the difficult peak climbing’s in Nepal. It can be climbed from southeast face and northwest face as well. This is not so difficult technically but there is still danger of rock falling. The trekking trail passes through steep and dense bamboo forest, menaced by unseen dangers of the hanging glaciers. From the north, the mountain rises steeply above the moraines of the Annapurna South Glacier in a series of shabby buttresses and an ill-defined and complicated North Ridge. These in turn lead to a final triangle of fluted ice that forms the summit. The summit is bounded on the east by a ridge that rises in an icy parabola, from which a steep couloirs descends towards the moraines above the lodges at base camp. Considered as one of the most complex climbs, the trek to the Hiunchuli Peak requires excellent technical and experience. Hiunchuli Peak was first climbed in October 1971 by an expedition led by the USA Peace Corps volunteer Craig Anderson.
Climbing Route
South-east Face: From Annapurna Base Camp cross two glaciers insight of east face. There is potential icefall danger from these glaciers. Climb a rock wall and sight camp one place on the glacier at 4,700 metres.
Camp 01: cross the Glacier running due-east to a rock wall and climb this at its lowest point on good rock. In fact, it is possible to climb the rock wall by a couloirs line (600ft). That split it, running diagonally left to right. Near the top of the couloirs traverse, left in to shorter couloirs that is followed to the upper snow slope where we put the Camp two at 5,334 metres.
Camp 02: Cross the large snow basin that leads to the foot of a hanging glacier and camp 3.
Camp 03: Climb up a narrow avalanche chute to the base of a hanging Glacier. Traverse left under the hanging glacier to easier slopes on its left -hand side snow slopes above the climbed to the site of Camp 4 at 6,096 metres, beneath a large crevasse. Cross the bergschrund to easier snow slopes which in turn lead to the final ridge. Follow this ridge to the top descend same way.
Note:
1. If you have your own private group or team, please e-mail us to know the price and details of peak climbing.
2. Looking to join a group? if so, feel free to contact us for more information.
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m), meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu, preparation and briefing about trip at evening.
Day 03: Drive or, flight to Pokhara (915m) and transfer to Hotel.
Day 04: Drive to Kyumrung Khola Village, trek to Sinuwa Danda (1,540m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 05: Sinuwa Danda – Himalaya Hotel (2,840m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 06: Himalaya Hotel – Machhapuchhre Base Camp (3,757m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 07: Acclimatization day, preparation for climb and explore around. O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 08: Machhapuchhre Base Camp – Annapurna Base Camp (4,130m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 09: Annapurna Base Camp – Hiunchuli Base Camp (4,600m) Set up Camp. O/N at Camping.
Day 10: Hiunchuli Peak Set up Camp 1 (4,700m). O/N at Camping.
Day 11: Hiunchuli Peak climbing period. O/N at Camping.
Day 12: Hiunchuli Peak climbing period. O/N at Camping.
Day 13: Ascent to Hiunchuli Peak (6,434m) Summit attempt, back to Base Camp. Full Camping.
Day 14: Contingency day, incase of bad weather, Clean BC and backpack. O/N at Camping/T. Lodge.
Day 15: Base Camp Cleaning and back to Himalaya Hotel. O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 16: Himalaya Hotel – Chhomrong Village (2,030m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 17: Trek to Kyumrung Khola Village and drive back to Pokhara then transfers at Hotel.
Day 18: Pokhara Leisure and explore around the area. Overnight at Hotel.
Day 19: Drive or, flight to Kathmandu then transfer tot Hotel.
Day 20: Free day in Kathmandu for rest and farewell dinner in the evening.
Day 21: Last minute, transfers to TIA airport for your onward journey. Final Departure.
Tipping System:
Tipping is done on a group-sharing basis by peak climbing participants. The minimum recommended amounts are as bellow:
1. Trek+Climbing Guide, a Cook: Min. USD 150 each.
2. BC Kitchen Boys/Helpers: Min. USD 100 each.
3. Porters: Min. USD 50 each.