Kyazo Ri (6,151m) is known as Kyajo Ri is a semi technical peak situated in the Khumbu region, Nepal. Kyazo Ri is lies in the Mahalangur Range among a long line of peaks continuing all the way to Cho Oyu border between Nepal and Tibet. With the Thame valley to the west and the Gokyo valley to the east the high Kyazo Ri is the highest summit on the southern part of this ridge. Since it has not been long since Kyazo Ri was open for climbing, adventure enthusiasts who are looking to summit the mountain can do so without having to deal with a lot of crowd. More importantly, you can enjoy your journey to the summit and back in its full glory. Trekking through the Everest region offers astounding mountain views and an opportunity to get a glimpse of the lifestyle of the world famous climbers (the Sherpas). Our 19-day journey begins with a spectacular and an enthralling mountain flight to Tenzing Hillary airport at Lukla. The trip continues by trekking in the amazing hilly and mountainous regions of Nepal. Next, we achieve our ultimate objective of summiting Kyazo Ri before heading back to Kathmandu to end an excellent trip to the Khumbu Himalayas.
History:
The peak was opened to climbing by the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism, in 2002 and the first (official) ascent was made that year by a Franco/British team. They approached from Machhermo, traversed the Kyazo Glacier and climbed via the Southwest Ridge. The same route was repeated in 2003 by a French team as an acclimatization outing in preparation for the difficult North Face of Machharmo peak, which they then climbed (Bonfire of the Vanities). Also in 2003, a Dutch team climbed the Southwest Ridge route after failing on an attempt of the east face. In 2005 an American team climbed the more difficult Southeast Ridge establishing only the second route on the peak. There have been a few other attempts on the mountain – an Australian in 2005 and an American in the spring of 2006, a Korean (perhaps), and possibly others.
Difficulty:
There is significant technical climbing at high altitude. Summit day is very long and tiring. The approach trek to base Camp is not overly difficult and is suitable for experienced off-trail hikers in good condition. In difficulty it is probably comparable to the Cho La route, or to treks that cross the Renjo La, and perhaps a bit harder than the Kala Pattar trek near Everest Base Camp.
Camp 1 (5,280m) is a long way, and a hard day over rough, but non-technical terrain. Camp 2 is not so far from Camp 1 but the intervening climbing is occasionally over difficult tall us and giant boulders.
Camp 2 (5,700m) We are able to move together a short way, then soon begin belayed climbing. We climb about 12 pitches of steep snow and ice, to perhaps 65° in steepness for one or two pitches just below the summit. We will belay, lower and rappel the same route on descent. Overall, the difficulty is comparable to the summit day on Ama Dablam. Kyazo Ri is significantly harder physically and technically than Lobuche West - East or, Island Peak.
Note:
1. If you have your own private group or team, please e-mail us to know the price and details of peak climbing.
2. Looking to join a group? if so, feel free to contact us for more information.
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m), meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu, preparation and briefing about trip at evening.
Day 03: Flight to Lukla (2,860m) then trek to Phakding Village (2,610m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 04: Phakding Village – Namche Bazar (3,440m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 05: Rest day for acclimatization, with a day hike to Hotel Everest View (3,790m) and the surrounding areas.
Day 06: Namche Bazar – Mende Village (3,736m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 07: Mende Village – Kyazo Ri Peak Base Camp (4,550m) – Set up Camp. O/N at Camping.
Day 08: Day for acclimatization and preparation for climbing at Base Camp. O/N at Camping.
Day 09: Kyazo Ri Base Camp to Camp – 1 (5,280m) – Set up Camp, preparation. Full Camping.
Day 10: Climb from Camp 1 to Camp – 2 (5,700m) – Set up Camp for final ascent. Full Camping.
Day 11/12: Ascent Kyazo Ri Peak (6,151m) summit and return to Base Camp. Full Camping.
Day 13: Contingency days incase of bad weather, Clean Base Camp and backpack. O/N at Camping.
Day 14: Kyazo Ri Base Camp to Namche Bazar. O/N at Teahouse Lodge/Hotel.
Day 15: Namche Bazar – Lukla Bazar and over night at Teahouse Lodge/Hotel.
Day 16: Flight back from Lukla Bazar to Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel.
Day 17: Free day in Kathmandu for rest and farewell dinner in the evening.
Day 18: Last minute, transfers to TIA airport for your onward journey. Final Departure.
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m), meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu, preparation and briefing about trip at evening.
Day 03: Flight to Lukla (2,860m) and trek to Phakding Village (2,610m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 04: Phakding Village – Namche Bazar (3,440m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 05: Rest day for acclimatization, with a day hike to Hotel Everest View (3,790m) and the surrounding areas.
Day 06: Namche Bazar – Dole Village (4,200m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 07: Dole Village – Machhermo (4,470m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 08: Machharmo – Gokyo Village (Gokyo Lake - 4,790m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 09: Morning hiking to Gokyo Ri (Gokyo Peak - 5,360m) return to Gokyo Lake.
Day 10: Gokyo Village – Renjo-La Pass (5,360m) – Lungden (4,380m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 11: Lungden to Thame Village (3,800m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 12: Thame Village to Mende (3,736m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 13: Mende Village to Kyazo Ri Peak Base Camp (4,550m) – Set up Camp. O/N at Camping.
Day 14: Day for acclimatization and preparation for climbing at Base Camp. O/N at Camping.
Day 15: Kyazo Ri Base Camp to Camp – 1 (5,280m) – Set up Camp, preparation. Full Camping.
Day 16: Climb from Camp 1 to Camp – 2 (5,700m) – Set up Camp for final ascent. Full Camping.
Day 17: Ascent Kyazo Ri Peak (6,151m) summit and return to Base Camp. Full Camping.
Day 18: Contingency days incase of bad weather, Clean Base Camp and backpack. O/N at Camping.
Day 19: Kyazo Ri Base camp to Namche Bazar. O/N at Teahouse Lodge/Hotel.
Day 20: Namche Bazar – Lukla Bazar and Overnight to Teahouse Lodge/Hotel.
Day 21: Flight back from Lukla to Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel.
Day 22: Free day in Kathmandu for rest and farewell dinner in the evening.
Day 23: Last minute, transfers to TIA airport for your onward journey. Final Departure.
Tipping System:
Tipping is done on a group-sharing basis by peak climbing participants. The minimum recommended amounts are as bellow:
1. Trek+Climbing Guide, a Cook: Min. USD 150 each.
2. BC Kitchen Boys/Helpers: Min. USD 100 each.
3. Porters: Min. USD 50 each.