Mt. Dhaulagiri 8167m. Expedition

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Above 8000m. - Autumn
Mt. Dhaulagiri 8167m. Expedition

Trip Overview

Departure Detail
Autumn Season:
Kathmandu Arrival Date: September 03, 2024
Expedition Fixed Departure Date: September 06, 2024

Mt. Dhaulagiri is the sixth highest peaks in Nepal standing as the seventh highest mountain in the world. This mountain situated in the northwestern corridor of Nepal in Myagdi District. Mt. Dhaulagiri is extends about 120km from Kaligandaki River to the Bheri river in the west. “Dhaulagiri” is derived from the Sanskrit word, “Dhawala and Giri” which means “White Mountain”respectively. Mt. Dhaulagiri is also the highest point of the Gandaki River Basin. The Annapurna I, which is 34Km east of Dhaulagiri I, in between these two giants a gorge is formed, known as Kaligandaki Gorge, This gorge is deepest gorge in the world and Kaligandaki River flows in this gorge.

Dhaulagiri is reflected as one of the most fascinating peaks to climb. Mt. Dhaulagiri has five ridges and south and west faces, Majority of the scaling have been following the first route, which is known as “Normal Route”. Northeast route is considered as the normal route; However, Mt. Dhaulagiri has been scaled from every direction. It was the team of Swiss/Austrian Mountaineers led by Kurt Diemberger who first reached to the top of Mt. Dhaulagiri on 13th May 1960. As all of Dhaulagiri routes are challenging, only veterans seems to have interest in this mountain.

Camp 1: 5,850m. - We will establish Camp 1 for Dhaulagiri Expedition at (5,850m.) on the Col east from the ABC. Along this trail, there is a high risk of avalanche fall and crevasses, so you must be wide aware of risk and difficulties.

Camp 2: 6400m. - Camp 2 will be set up at (6,400m.) after some steep climbing sections from Camp 1. Here climbing Sherpas will guide you as you need some technical climbing experience and need to climb up using the fixed ropes. As usual, you need one technical Ice Axe if you have one Private Sherpa with you, else you need two Ice Axe.

Camp 3: 7400m. - We will set up Camp 3 (7400m.) along the ridge of the mountain, located towards the west with steep ice and snow climbing. Heading towards Camp 3 there will be frequent ups and downs. We have to climb towards the East Ridge, where strong wind may challenge us before reaching Camp 3. This is the most difficult part of the Dhaulagiri Expedition.

We will try a direct push for the summit and return to Camp 3, it all conditions, weather, permits us. For safe landing. We will set up a fallback camp at 7,900 m in order to attempt another summit push the next day.

Note:
If you have your own private group or team, please e-mail us to know the price and details of expedition.
If you are alone and looking for a group to join then visit our fix-departure expedition information.

Outline Expedition Itinerary: A via Jomsom

03 September - Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m.), meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.
04 September - Day 02: Kathmandu free and preparation.
05.September - Day 03: Official work for expedition and briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
06 September - Day 04: Drive to Beni (820m.), Galeshor and transfers to Lodges.
07 September - Day 05: Galeshor– Tatopani (1,189m.) Teahouse Lodge.
08 September - Day 06: Tatopani – Ghasa Village (2,084m.) Teahouse Lodge.
09 September - Day 07: Ghasa – Marpha Village (2,667m.) Teahouse Lodge.
10 September - Day 08: Marpha Village– Yak Kharka (3,680m.) Camping.
11 September - Day 09: Yak Kharka – Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4,700m.) Camping.
12 Sept./10 Oct. - Day 10/38: Climbing Period for Mt. Dhaulagiri (8,167m.)
11 October - Day 39: Preparation and Base Camp Cleaning.
12 October - Day 40: Dhaulagiri Base Camp - Yak Kharka (3,680m.) Camping.
13 October - Day 41: Yak Kharka – Marpha Village. Teahouse Lodge.
14 October - Day 42: Marpha – Jomsom Bazar (2,720m.) and transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
15 October - Day 43: Fly to Pokhara (915m.) and Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
16 October - Day 44: Kathmandu free for D-briefing and rest, farewell dinner at evening.
17 October - Day 45: Last minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey.

Optional: Outline Itinerary: B via Beni Bazar

03 September - Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m.), meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.
04 September - Day 02: Kathmandu free.
05 September - Day 03: Official work for expedition and briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
06 September - Day 04: Drive to Beni Bazar (830m.) then transfer to Lodge.
07 September - Day 05: Beni Bazar– Darbang Village (1,110m.). Tented Camp.
08 September - Day 06: Darbang – Baskot Village (1,602m.). Camping.
09 September - Day 07: Baskot Village – Bagar (Baghara - 2080m.). Camping.
10 September - Day 08: Bagar Village – Dovan (2,520m.). Camping.
11 September - Day 09: Dovan – Sallaghari (Pine Forest - 3,445m.) Camping.
12 September - Day 10: Sallaghari – Italian Base Camp (3,660m.). Camping.
13 September - Day 11: Italian Base Camp – Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4,748m.).
14 Sept./10 Oct. - Day 12/38: Climbing period for Mt. Dhaulagiri (8,167m.)
11 October - Day 39: Preparation and Base Camp Cleaning.
12 October - Day 40: Dhaulagiri Base Camp - Yak Kharka (3,680m.) Camping.
13 October - Day 41: Yak Kharka – Marpha Village (2,667m.). Camping.
14 October - Day 42: Marpha – Jomsom Bazar (2,720m.) and transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
15 October - Day 43: Fly to Pokhara (915m.) and Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
16 October - Day 44: Kathmandu free for D-briefing and rest, farewell dinner at evening.
17 October - Day 45: Last minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey.

Service Includes up to Base Camp

All land transportation by Car, Van, Toyota Hiace, Tourist Bus, Local Jeep or Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport, expedition pick up and drop).
5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel on Bed & Breakfast plan (before and after expedition).
Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Camp and back.
Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back.
Base Camp single sleeping tent and Mattress for each member, Base Camp staffs and Liaison officer.
All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table and chairs and cooking utensils for Base Camp.
Food and fuel at Base Camp.
Service of Government Liaison officer.
Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
Equipments allowance, daily wages of cook, kitchen boys and Liaison officer.
Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison officer and porters.
Expedition Permit fee of Mt. Dhaulagiri.
Annapurna Conservation Area project Permits (ACAP entrance fee).
Scheduled flight: Jomsom/Pokhara/Kathmandu with domestic airport tax.
Per Person 50 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels allowed for expedition till Base Camp.
Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels is allowed for returned to Kathmandu.
2 Expedition duffel bag or barrel for each member.
Generator or Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
Emergency medical Oxygen bottle with Mask and regulator at Base Camp.
Visa extension fee.
Garbage deposit fees.
Official tax and agency service charge.

Service does not include

International airfare from/to your country.
Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport at upon arrival).
Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu and Pokhara.
Hotel after 5 nights stay in Kathmandu.
Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
High Tents above Base Camp.
High altitude food and fuel above Base Camp.
Oxygen bottle with Mask and regulator (will be provided as per your request).
Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, Walkie Talkies, communication equipment and commercial filming.
International airport departure tax at Kathmandu Airport.
Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
Tips and summit bonus.

Expedition service up to Summit

All land transportation by Car, Van, Toyota Hiace, Tourist Bus, Local Jeep or Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport, expedition pick up and drop).
5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel on Bed & Breakfast plan (before and after the expedition).
Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Camp and back.
Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back.
All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table, chairs & cooking utensils for Base Camp.
Base Camp single sleeping tent, Mattress for each member, Base Camp staffs and Liaison officer.
Food and fuel at Base Camp.
Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
Service of Government Liaison officer.
Equipments allowance, wages of cook, kitchen boys and Liaison officer.
Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison officer and porters.
Expedition Permit fee of Mt. Dhaulagiri.
Annapurna Conservation Area project Permits (ACAP entrance fee).
SAir Ticket: Jomsom/Pokhara/Kathmandu with domestic airport tax.
One high altitude Sherpa per climber to carry all food and gear to higher camps. Also assist the member during climb and summit attempt.
Common climbing equipment such as ropes, ice screws, ice bar, pitons, etc.
High altitude food.
High altitude fuel.
High altitude tents.
Per Person 50 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels allowed for expedition till Base Camp.
Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels is allowed for returned to Kathmandu.
2 Expedition duffel bag or barrel for each member.
Generator or, Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
Emergency medical Oxygen bottle with Mask and regulator at Base Camp.
Visa extension fee.
Garbage deposit fees.
Official tax and agency service charge.

Expedition service does not include

International airfare from/to your country.
Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport at upon arrival).
Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu & Pokhara.
Hotel after 5 nights stay in Kathmandu.
Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
High Tents above Base Camp.
High altitude food and fuel above Base Camp.
Oxygen bottle with Mask and regulator (will be provided as per your request).
Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, Walkie Talkies, communication equipment and commercial filming.
International airport departure tax at Kathmandu Airport.
Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
Tips and summit bonus.

Hiring High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (Guide): USD 3000 Per Sherpa (If required by Member)

Note:

We will provide you the expedition cost as per your size of group or, as per your requirement for the expedition service. We request you to e-mail us or, use "Book Expedition" form for send us your message.

Above given cost does not include the climbing Sherpa’s food and fuel, tents, climbing gears and summit bonus above advance base camp.

Hiring a high altitude Sherpa does cost includes equipment allowances, daily wages, food and fuel up to base camp, insurance, flight from Jomsom/Pokhara/Kathmandu and sleeping tents at BC etc.

Summit Bonus: Camp 8000m. = USD 500 and over 8000m. to summit= USD 1000 = 1500 USD extra payable for climbing Sherpa on the spot.

Gallery

Trip Highlights

Location
Asia, Nepal
Himalayan Range
Dhaulagiri Himal
Height
8,167m. - (26,795 ft)
Latitude
28º 41’ 54” N
Longitude
83º 29’ 15” E
Trip Days
45 Days
Normal Ascent Route
North East Ridge
First Ascent
May 13, 1960 by Kurt D., A. Schelbert, E. Forrer, Nawang, Nyima Dorje - Winter ascent 21 Jan. 1985 Jerzy K. and Andrzej Czok)
Easiest Route
Glacier/Snow/Ice climb
Grade
Mountaineering
Group Size
Min. 4 Climbers/Group Joining Basis
Lodging Level
Hotel/Lodges/Camping
Accommodation
5 Nights Kathmandu, 39 Nights Teahouse Lodge/Camping
Food
B/L/D, Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Best Seasons
Spring/Autumn
Caravan Route
Kathmandu - Beni Bazar - Marpha village - Yak Kharka - Dhaulagiri Base Camp - Marpha Village - Kathmandu