Mt. Makalu Expedition, Climb Makalu, Makalu Expedition Information, Makalu Base Camp, Makalu Expedition

Trip Overview

Departure Details

Autumn Season:
Kathmandu Arrival Date: September 02, 2024
Expedition Fixed Departure Date: September 05, 2024

Mt. Makalu is one of the harder, 4th tallest in Nepal and 5th highest among the 8000 meter mountain and is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world for the climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock climbing. Mt. Makalu resides in the eastern Himalayas range just 19Km southeast of the giant Mt. Everest in the border of Nepal and China. At the base of Mt. Makalu, there lies a natural wonder: The Barun valley facilitates with stunning elevated waterfalls falling inside the deep gorges, diverse species of flora and fauna with rich cultures of ethnic communities like Sherpa and Kirat. Although, this area is somewhat isolated, it is for sure that, every visitor who every step here will take a memorable reminiscence with them for their lifetime. Makalu is the only Nepalese (8,000m.) peak which has yet to be climbed in true winter conditions.

Mt. Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco. Franco, G. Magnone and Sirdar Gyaltsen Norbu summited the next day successfully, followed by Bouvier, S. Coupe, Leroux and A. Vialatteon the 17th. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route. Since the first climb to the top, several successful attempts had been made to the top of the peak. Makalu bears a pyramid shape. South East and the North West Ridges being the most prominent compared to other. Among these two, the North Western ridge route is used by most of the mountaineers to reach the top of the peak. Mt. Makalu Expedition in Nepal is full of adventures as well as dangers too. The Russian team scaled the west route, which is considered the most dangerous route, in 1997. They reach the top on 21st May 1997 following the most challenging route. Climbing Makalu is test of the sheer endurance of a climber.

Mt. Makalu Climbing Route: Mt. Makalu has fixed five routes by every expedition team and four variations along with other interesting opportunities like the West Face, the Northeast from Nepal and North Flanks from Tibet. Our trek follows one of the most remote and unfrequented areas of Nepal. Starting fly to Tumlingtar and drive to Chichila or Num from where we start to walk towards Arun River, we walk through the snow, rain and cloud prone Kauma. The base camp is normally set at around 5,600m., and then four camps follow before reaching the top. The Camp - 1 is at 6,100m., Camp - 2 is at 6500m., the Camp - 3 is at 7400m. and the Camp - 4 is at 7800m. Makalu Base Camp is just south of the snout of the Barun Glacier at an elevation of (4,823m.) Finally, after the climbing of Mt. Makalu expedition, our trip will finish at Tumlingtar plateau where we take plane to fly in to Kathmandu directly.

If you have your own private group or team, please e-mail us to know the price and details of expedition.
If you are alone and looking for a group to join then visit our fix-departure expedition information.

Outline Expedition Itinerary: A

02 September - Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu airport (1,350m.), meet our staff, then transfer to Hotel.
03 September - Day 02: Preparation for Expedition.
04 September - Day 03: Official work for expedition and briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
05 September - Day 04: Fly to Tumlinglar (460m.) and drive to Chichila (1,980m.) 3/4 hrs.
06 September - Day 05: Local Jeep drive to Num. (1,490m.) 6/7 hrs.
07 September - Day 06: Num - Seduwa. (1,500m.) 6/7 hrs.
08 September - Day 07: Seduwa - Tashi Gaon. (Village - 2,070m.) 4/5 hrs.
09 September - Day 08: Tashi Gaon - Khongma Danda. (3500m.) 6/7 hrs.
10 September - Day 09: Acclimatization day (3,500m.) 5 hrs.
11 September - Day 10: Khongma Danda - Dobato. (3,500m). 6/7 hrs.
12 September - Day 11: Dobato - Yangle Kharka. (3,557m.) 6/7 hrs.
13 September - Day 12: Yangle Kharka - Langmale Kharka. (4,410m.) 5/6 hrs.
14 September - Day 13: Langmale Kharka - Makalu Base Camp. (4,870m.) 6-7 hrs.
15 September - Day 14: Set up camp at Makalu Base Camp. (4,870m.)
16 Sept./01 Oct. - Day 15/30: Climbing period for Mt. Makalu (8,463m.)
02 October - Day 31: Makalu Base Camp - Yangle Kharka. (3,557m.) 6/7 hrs.
03 October - Day 32: Yangle Kharka - Dobato. (3,500m.) 6/7 hrs.
04 October - Day 33: Dobato - Khongma Danda. (3,500m.) 5/6 hrs.
05 October - Day 34: Khongma Danda - Tashi Gaon. (2,100m.) 4/5 hrs.
06 October - Day 35: Tashi Gaon - Seduwa. (1,500m.) 4/5 hrs.
07 October - Day 36: Seduwa - Num. (1,490m.) 4/5 hrs.
08 October - Day 37: Num - Tumlingtar via Chichila by drive (1,980m.) 6/7 hrs.
09 October - Day 38: Tumlingtar - Kathmandu by flight. 50 min, O/N at Hotel.
11 October - Day 39: Kathmandu free for D-briefing and rest, farewell dinner at evening.
12 October - Day 40: Last minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey.

Optional: Outline Expedition Itinerary: B

02 September - Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu airport (1,350m.), meet our staff, then transfer to Hotel.
03 September - Day 02: Preparation for Expedition.
04 September - Day 03: Official work for expedition and briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
05 September - Day 04: Fly to Tumlinglar (460m.) and drive to Chichila (1,980m.) 3/4 hrs.
06 September - Day 05: Chichila - Num (1,490m.) by local Jeep drive. 6/7 hrs.
07 September - Day 06: Num - Seduwa. (1,500m.) 6/7 hrs.
08 September - Day 07: Seduwa - Tashi Gaon. (Village - 2,070m.) 4/5 hrs.
09 September - Day 08: Tashi Gaon - Khongma Danda. (3,500m.) 6/7 hrs.
10 September - Day 09: Acclimatization day (3,500m.) 5 hrs.
11 September - Day 10: Khongma Danda - Dobato. (3,500m). 6/7 hrs.
12 September - Day 11: Dobato - Yangle Kharka. (3,557m.) 6/7 hrs.
13 September - Day 12: Yangle Kharka - Langmale Kharka. (4,410m.) 5/6 hrs.
14 September - Day 13: Langmale Kharka - Makalu Base Camp. (4,870m.) 6-7 hrs.
15 September - Day 14: Set up camp at Makalu Base Camp. (4,870m.)
16 Sept./11 Oct. - Day 15/40: Climbing period of Mt. Makalu (8,463m.)
12 October - Day 41: Makalu Base Camp - Yangle Kharka. (3557m.) 6/7 hrs.
13 October - Day 42: Yangle Kharka - Dobato. (3,500m.) 6/7 hrs.
14 October - Day 43: Dobato - Khongma Danda. (3,500m.) 5/6 hrs.
15 October - Day 44: Khongma Danda - Tashi Gaon. (2,100m.) 4/5 hrs.
16 October - Day 45: Tashi Gaon - Seduwa. (1,500m.) 4/5 hrs.
17 October - Day 46: Seduwa - Num. (1,490m.) 4/5 hrs.
18 October - Day 47: Num - Tumlingtar via Chichila by drive (1,980m.) 6/7 hrs.
19 October - Day 48: Tumlingtar - Kathmandu by flight. 50 min, O/N at Hotel.
20 October - Day 49: Kathmandu free for D-briefing and rest, farewell dinner at evening.
21 October - Day 50: Last minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey.

Service Includes up to Base Camp

All land transportation by Car, Van, Toyota Hiace, Local Jeep or, Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport, expedition pick up and drop).
5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel on Bed & Breakfast plan (before and after expedition).
Schedule flight: Kathmandu/Tumlingtar/Kathmandu for member, Liaison officer and Expedition staffs.
Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Camp and back.
Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back.
Base Camp single sleeping tent and Mattress for each member, BC staffs and Liaison officer.
All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table, chairs and cooking utensils for Base Camp.
Food and fuel at Base Camp.
Service of Government Liaison officer.
Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
Equipments allowance, daily wages of cook, kitchen boys and Liaison officer.
Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison officer and porters.
Peak Permit fee of Mt. Makalu.
Makalu-Barun National Park and Conservation Area entrance fee.
Per Person 50 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels allowed for expedition till Base Camp.
Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels is allowed for returned to Kathmandu.
2 Expedition duffel bag or Barrel for each member.
Generator or Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
Emergency medical Oxygen at Base Camp.
Visa extension fee.
Garbage deposit fees.
Official tax and agency service charge.

Service does not include

International airfare from/to your country.
Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport at upon arrival).
Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu.
Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
High Tents above Base Camp.
High altitude food and fuel above Base Camp.
Oxygen bottle with Mask and regulator (will be provided as per request).
Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, Walkie Talkies communication equipment and commercial filming.
International airport departure tax at Kathmandu Airport.
Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
Tips and summit bonus.

Expedition service up to Summit

All land transportation by Car, Van, Toyota Hiace, Local Jeep or, Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport, expedition pick up and drop).
5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel on Bed & Breakfast plan (before and after expedition).
Schedule flight: Kathmandu/Tumlingtar/Kathmandu for member, Liaison officer and Expedition staffs.
Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Camp and back.
Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back.
All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table, chairs, cooking utensils for Base Camp.
Base Camp single sleeping tent and Mattress for each member, BC staffs and Liaison officer.
Food and fuel at Base Camp.
Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
Service of Government Liaison officer.
Equipments allowance, wages of cook, kitchen boys and Liaison officer.
Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison officer and porters.
Peak Permit fee of Mt. Makalu.
Makalu-Barun National Park and Conservation Area entrance fee.
One high altitude Sherpa per climber to carry all food and gear to higher camps. Also assist the member during climb and summit attempt.
Common climbing equipment such as ropes, ice screws, ice bar, pitons, etc.
High altitude food.
High altitude fuel.
High altitude tents.
Per Person 50 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels allowed for expedition till Base Camp.
Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels is allowed for returned to Kathmandu.
2 Expedition duffel bag or Barrel for each member.
Generator or, Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
Emergency medical Oxygen bottle with Mask and regulator at Base Camp.
Visa extension fee.
Garbage deposit fees.
Official tax and agency service charge.

Expedition service does not include

International airfare from/to your country.
Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu.
Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, Walkie Talkies, communication equipment and commercial filming.
Oxygen bottle with Mask and regulator (will be provided as per request).
Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
Tips and summit bonus.

Hiring High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (Guide): USD 3000 Per Sherpa (If required by Member)

Note:

We will provide you the expedition cost as per your size of group or, as per your requirement for the expedition service. We request you to e-mail us or, use "Book Expedition" form for send us your message.

Above given cost does not include the climbing Sherpa’s food and fuel, tents, climbing gears and summit bonus above advance base camp.

Hiring a high altitude Sherpa does cost includes equipment allowances, daily wages, food and fuel up to base camp, insurance, Kathmandu,Tumlingtar/Kathmandu and sleeping tents at BC etc.

Summit Bonus: Camp 8000m. = USD 500 and over 8000m. to summit= USD 500 = 1000 USD extra payable for climbing Sherpa on the spot.

Gallery

Trip Highlights

Location
Asia, Nepal (Khumbu/Tibet, China)
Himalayan Range
Mahalangur Himal
Height
Height: 8,463m. - (27,766 ft)
Latitude
27º 53’ 21” N
Longitude
87º 05’ 19” E
Trip Days
40, 50 Days
Normal Ascent Route
West Face, North Face
First Ascent
May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy
Easiest Route
Snow/Ice climb
Grade
Mountaineering
Group Size
Minimum 4 Climbers/Group Joining Basis
Lodging Level
Hotel/Lodges/Camping
Accommodation
5 Nights Kathmandu, 34 Nights Tea-houseLodge/Camping
Food
B/L/D, Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Best Seasons
Spring/Autumn
Caravan Route
Kathmandu - Tumlingtar - Chichila - Num - Yak Kharka - Makalu Base Camp - Tumlingtar - Kathmandu