Sharphu Expedition, Sharphu Peak Climb, Sharphu Peak Summit, Sharphu Peak Itinerary, Sharphu Base Camp

Trip Overview

Departure Detail
Spring Season                                                                               Autumn Season
Kathmandu Arrival Date: April 06, 2024                               Kathmandu Arrival Date: September 30, 2024
Expedition Fixed Departure Date: April 08, 2024               Expedition Fixed Departure Date: Oct. 02, 2024

Sharphu Peak is a collection of peaks on a north-south ridge to the west of Kambachen at Mt. Kanchenjunga Base Camp area of Nepal, forming the watershed between the Ghunsa and Yangma valleys. Well to the north lie the peaks of Sato (6,176m) and Nupchu (6,044m); to the south is the Nango La, a pass on an established trail between Ghunsa and the Yangma Khola (valley).

There are six main summits in the group. From north to south these are Sharphu Sharphu I (7070m.), Sharphu II (6154m.), Sharphu III (6885m.), Sharphu IV (6433m.), Sharphu V (6328m.) and Sharphu VI (6076m.). Only the main summit, Sharphu I, is known to have been climbed: In 1963, Japanese climbers approached via the Sharphu Glacier to the southeast and climbed the south face and ridge. Takao Ishinabe, Chihura Miyamoto, and Yuzo Tatsumi were the first to reach the summit, on October 22, 2017 after fixing 1,000m of rope. Older maps sometimes refer to these peaks as the Tanga Group, with Sharphu III named Marson. On the ridge northwest of Sharpu V stands Tha Nagphu (5,980m). In April, María Pilar Agudo Fernández, José Luis Guzmán (both from Spain), Juan Pablo Sarjanovich (Argentina), and Pasang Sherpa (Nepal) set base camp at Kambachen with the aim of exploring these mountains. They attempted Sharphu I via the Sharphu Glacier to the southeast, reaching Camp 2 at 5,700m and finding the glacier to be much larger than depicted on their map.

They also went up the Nupchu Khola to look at some east faces of the Sharphu Group. From here they climbed Tha Nagphu (5,980m) via the glacier to the northeast and eventually the north ridge. They established Camp 1 below the glacier at ca 4,900m, four hours’ walk from Kambachen, then climbed past the small lake of Nupchu Pokhari to reach the glacier, which is much smaller than it appeared on their map. They crossed the glacier to the north ridge, climbed a 60° snow ramp followed by an 80° rock step, went up 150m of snow at 50°, and finished with a ramp of 80° snow and ice. Trails back with spectacular mountain scenery as we gradually descend to Taplejung and flight back to Kathmandu from Suketar.

Note:
If you have your own private group or team, please e-mail us to know the price and details of expedition.
If you are alone and looking for a group to join then visit our fix-departure expedition information.

Outline Expedition Itinerary: Spring

06 April - Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m.), meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.
07 April - Day 02: Official work for expedition and briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
08 April - Day 03: Kathmandu – Biratnagar by flight then drive to Basantapur.
09 April - Day 04: Basantapur – Chowki (2,660m.).
10 April - Day 05: Chowki – Gupha Pokhari.(2890m.).
11 April - Day 06: Gupha Pokhari – Dovan (760m.).
12 April - Day 07: Dovan – Mitlung (995m.).
13 April - Day 08: Mitlung – Chiruwa (1,200m.).
14 April - Day 09: Chiruwa – Sakathum (1,600m.).
15 April - Day 10: Sakathum – Amjilessa (2,460m.).
16 April - Day 11: Amjilessa (Gyapla) – Ghunsa (3,475m.)
17 April - Day 12: Ghunsa – Khambachen (4,130m.)
18 April - Day 13: Hiking Lhonak (4,780m. ) (Pangpengma Base camp 5000m.).
19 April - Day 14: Khambachen – Back to Ghunsa 3475m.
20 April - Day 15: Ghunsa – Nango-la pass(4,802m.) Sharphu III Base Camp.
21 April - Day 16: Sharphu III Base Camp – Marson -La Pass and Sharphu I Base Camp.
22 April/02 May - Day 17/27: Sharphu Peak 1st (7,070m.) Climbing Period.
03 May - Day 28: Ghunsa – Mivingla Base Camp.
04 May - Day 29: Mivingla Base Camp – Tseram (3,750m.)
05 May - Day 30: Tseram – Omje Khola (2,340m.).
06 May - Day 31: Omje Khola –Phumpe Danda.
07 May - Day 32: Phumpe Danda – Kunjari.
08 May - Day 33: Kunjari – Suketar (2419m. - Taplejung).
09 May - Day 34: Suketar – Kathmandu by flight then transfers to Hotel.
10 May - Day 35: Kathmandu free for D-briefing and rest, farewell dinner at evening.
11 May - Day 36: Last minute, transfer to airport for onward journey.

Outline Expedition Itinerary: Autumn

01 October - Day 02: Official work for expedition and briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
02 October - Day 03: Kathmandu – Biratnagar by flight then drive to Basantapur (2,200m.).
03 October - Day 04: Basantapur – Chowki (2,660m.).
04 October - Day 05: Chowki – Gupha Pokhari (2890m.).
05 October - Day 06: Gupha Pokhari – Dovan (760m.).
06 October - Day 07: Dovan – Mitlung (995m.).
07 October - Day 08: Mitlung – Chiruwa (1,200m.).
08 October - Day 09: Chiruwa – Sakathum (1,600m.).
09 October - Day 10: Sakathum – Amjilessa (2,460m.).
10 October - Day 11: Amjilessa (Gyapla) – Ghunsa (3475m.)
11 October - Day 12: Ghunsa – Khambachen (4,130m.)
12 October - Day 13: Hiking Lhonak (4,780m.) (Pangpengma Base Camp 5000m.).
13 October - Day 14: Khambachen – Back to Ghunsa 3475m.
14 October - Day 15: Ghunsa – Nango-la pass(4,802m.) Sharphu III Base Camp.
15 October - Day 16: Sharphu III Base Camp – Marson -La Pass and Sharphu I Base Camp.
16/26 October Day 17/27: Sharphu Peak 1st (7,070m.) Climbing Period.
27 October - Day 28: Ghunsa – Mivingla Base Camp.
28 October - Day 29: Mivingla Base Camp – Tseram (3,750m.)
29 October - Day 30: Tseram – Omje Khola (2,340m.).
30 October - Day 31: Omje Khola –Phumpe Danda.
31 October - Day 32: Phumpe Danda – Kunjari.
01 November - Day 33: Kunjari – Suketar (2419m. - Taplejung).
02 November - Day 34: Suketar – Kathmandu by flight then transfers to Hotel.
03 November - Day 35: Kathmandu free for D-briefing and rest, farewell dinner at evening.
04 November - Day 36: Last minute, transfer to airport for onward journey.

Service Includes up to Base Camp

All land transportation by Car, Van, Toyota Hiace, Local Jeep or, Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport, expedition pick up and drop).
4 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel on Bed & Breakfast plan (before and after expedition).
Schedule flight Kathmandu/Biratnagar/Suketar/Kathmandu for member, Liaison officer and Expedition staffs.
Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Camp and back.
Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back.
Base Camp single sleeping tent, Mattress for each member, Base camp staffs and Liason officer.
All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table, chairs and cooking utensils for BC.
Food and fuel at Base Camp.
Service of Government Liaison officer.
Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
Equipments allowance, daily wages of cook, kitchen boys and Liaison officer.
Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison officer and porters.
Expedition Permit of Mt. Sharphu Peak.
Kanchenjunga Conservation Area entrance fee.
Per Person 30 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels allowed for expedition till Base Camp.
Per Person 20 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels is allowed for returned to Kathmandu.
2 Expedition duffel bag or barrel for each member.
Generator or Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
1 Set of Cultural Treks Piosk Oxygen bottle with mask and regulator will be in base camp in case of an emergency.
Visa extension fee.
Garbage deposit fees.
Official taxes and agency service charge.

Service does not include

International airfare from/to your country.
Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport at upon arrival).
Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu. Itinerary B
Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
High Tents above Base Camp.
High altitude food and fuel above Base Camp.
Piosk Oxygen bottle with Mask and regulator (will be provided as per request).
Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, Walkie-Talkies, Communication equipment and commercial filming.
International airport departure tax at Kathmandu Airport.
Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
Tips and bonus.

Expedition service up to Summit

All land transportation by Car, Van, Toyota Hiace, Local Jeep or, Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport, expedition pick up and drop).
4 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel on Bed & Breakfast plan (before and after expedition).
Schedule flight Kathmandu/Biratnagar/Suketar/Kathmandu for member, Liaison officer and Expedition staffs.
Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Campand and back.
Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back.
All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table, chairs and cooking utensils for BC.
Base Camp single sleeping tent & Mattress for each member, BC staffs and Liaison officer.
Food and fuel at Base Camp.
Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
Service of Government Liaison officer.
Equipments allowance, wages of cook, kitchen boy and Liaison officer.
Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison officer and porters.
Peak Permit fee of Mt. Sharphu.
Kanchenjunga Conservation Area entrance fee.
One high altitude Sherpa per climber to carry all food and gear to higher camps. Also assist the member during climb and summit attempt.
Common climbing equipment such as ropes, ice screws, ice bar, pitons, etc.
High altitude food.
High altitude fuel.
High altitude tents.
Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels allowed for expedition till Base Camp.
Per Person 30 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels is allowed for returned to Kathmandu.
2 Expedition duffel bag or barrel for each member.
Generator or, Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
1 Set of Cultural Treks Piosk Oxygen bottle with mask and regulator will be in base camp in case of an emergency.
Visa extension fee.
Garbage deposit fees.
Official taxes and agency service charge

Expedition service does not include

International airfare from/to your country.
Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu.
Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, Walkie-Talkies, Communication equipment and commercial filming.
Piosk Oxygen bottle with Mask and regulator (will be provided as per request).
Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
Tips and summit bonus.

Extra Cost for High Altitude Climbing Sherpa: USD 1900 for group sharing basis (if required by client)

Note:

We will provide you the expedition cost as per your size of group or, as per your requirement for the expedition service. We request you to e-mail us or, use "Book Expedition" form for send us your message.

Above given cost does not include the climbing Sherpa’s food & fuel, tents, climbing gears and summit bonus above advance base camp.

iring a high altitude Sherpa cost includes equipment allowances, daily wages, food and fuel up to base camp, insurance, flight from Kathmandu/Biratnagar/Suketar/Kathmandu and sleeping tents at BC etc.

Summit Bonus: Camp 7000m. = USD 500 and over 7000m. to summit= USD 400 = 900 USD extra payable for per climbing Sherpa on the spot.

Gallery

Trip Highlights

Location
Asia, Nepal
Himalayan Range
Kanchenjunga Himal
Height
Sharphu I -7,070m., Sharphu II 6154m., Sharphu III 6885m., Sharphu IV 6433m., Sharphu V 6328m., Sharphu VI 6076m.
Latitude
27º 42’ 09” N
Longitude
88º 09’ 25” E
Trip Days
36 Days
Normal Ascent Route
South West Face
First Ascent
Takao Ishinabe, Chihura Miyamoto, and Yuzo Tatsumi, - Japanese were the first to reach the summit, on October 22, 2017.
Easiest Route
Glacier/snow/Ice Climb
Grade
Mountaineering
Group Size
Minimum 2 Climber/Group Joining Basis/Private Group
Lodging Level
Hotel/Lodge/Camping
Accommodation
Hotel Room/Single Tent/Camping
Food
B/L/D, Except lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
Best Seasons
Spring/Autumn/Winter
Caravan Route
Kathmandu - Basantapur Taplejung - Mamanke - Yamphudin - Gunsa - Sharphu Base Camp - Kathmandu