Island Peak & Ama Dablam

Trip Overview

Departure Detail
Spring Season                                                                                Autumn Season
Kathmandu Arrival Date: March 14, 2026                             Kathmandu Arrival Date: October 14, 2026
Expedition Fixed Departure Date: March 17, 2026             Expedition Fixed Departure Date: Oct. 17, 2026

It is named ‘Island Peak’ in 1952 due to its striking resemblance to a Island on a sea of ice, this mountain was renamed ‘Imje Tse’ in the early 80s. Its original name is more often used, however. First climbed by a team preparing for an Everest ascent in 1953, Island Peak has an impressive, highly glaciated West Face which rises from the Lhotse Glacier. In fact, the mountain extends from the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated only by a small col. Above this gap is the ridge leading to the summit. From base camp, we will ascend gradually a steep grassy slope and rocky steps to high camp. It is necessary to climb a steep, exposed 300' snow and ice ramp to the summit ridge; fixed ropes will be used at this point in an otherwise non-technical snow climb. We will negotiate a final tricky snow pitch before reaching the summit. From here stunning views of the surrounding mountains can be seen from the peak, including Mt. Nuptse, Lhotse, Cho Polu, Makalu, Ama Dablam and Baruntse at the south east.

Beside this another adventure is Ama Dablam has been considered the prettiest mountain in the world. High on her Southwest face hangs a glacier resembling a 'Dablam' - the sacred ornament box worn by ladies in the Sherpa community. It was this spectacular feature that got her the name "Ama Dablam". She lies alongside Everest in the heart of the Khumbu valley offering a superb diversions close up view of Mt Lhotse, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Cho Oyu and Mt. Everest. Ama Dablam expedition requires steep ice, rock and snow climbing. Normally, three camps are set in Ama Dablam climbing above the base camp (4,570m), however, only two camps are used to spend the nights. The normal route for climbing is South-West Ridge. The ascent from Base Camp to camp 1st is considered one the difficult days of the expedition.

Experience Required: All climbers need to have good skills on rock and ice climbing and technically competent. On most parts of the routes there will be fixed rope, however, the climbers should posses skills of climbing through steep rock and hard compact ice. We follow the standard South West ridge route (normal route) to the top, as it is consider the safe route, free from the objective danger such as avalanche and so on. The route we follow begins at Lukla (2,860m) and the initial days of the trek pass through the legendary Sherpa country up the spectacular high valley of the Khumbu region. Most of the route on the actual climbing is fixed with no icefall or glacier to negotiate, and most of it is concentrated on the crest of a ridge.

We have designed the itineraries to climb Island Peak 6,160 meter before go to Ama Dablam Expedition. It would be a good training and acclimatization to make your success to climb Mt. Ama Dablam.

Note:
1. If you have your own private group or team, please e-mail us to know the price and details of expedition.
2. Looking to join a group? if so, feel free to contact us for more information.

Note for expedition participants:
Expedition service up to Base Camp: This applies to those who have booked the expedition service - up to Base Camp. The cost does not include the High Altitude (H. A.) Sherpa guide, food and fuel, tents, climbing gear, fixed ropes up to the summit, or the Sherpa’s bonus beyond Advance Base Camp.

Additional Cost for High Altitude Climbing Sherpa: USD 2,500 (If required by client)

The additional cost for a High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (H. A.) includes: Expedition equipment allowance, Personal climbing gears, daily wages, food and fuel from base camp to summit, helicopter rescue coverage, medical expenses, accident insurance for the Sherpa, all ground transportation, domestic flight tickets (Kathmandu–Lukla–Kathmandu or Ramechhap–Lukla–Ramechhap), and a personal sleeping tent at base camp, among other essentials.

Summit Bonus for High Altitude Climbing Sherpa: Island Peak USD 150 and Ama Dablam USD 500 for reaching Camp at 6,000m, plus USD 200 for climbing from 6,000m to the summit - total USD 850. This amount is payable on the spot by the climbing member and applies only to those who purchase package services - up to summit.

We will provide the expedition cost based on your group size and specific service requirements. Please feel free to email us or use the 'Book Expedition' form to send us your inquiry.

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