Mt. Makalu 8,463m. Expedition

Trip Overview

Departure Details
Spring Season:
Kathmandu Arrival Date: April 03, 2026
Expedition Fixed Departure Date: April 06, 2026

Mt. Makalu is one of the harder, 4th tallest in Nepal and 5th highest among the 8000 meter mountain and is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world for the climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock climbing. Mt. Makalu resides in the eastern Himalayas range just 19Km southeast of the giant Mt. Everest in the border of Nepal and China. At the base of Mt. Makalu, there lies a natural wonder: The Barun valley facilitates with stunning elevated waterfalls falling inside the deep gorges, diverse species of flora and fauna with rich cultures of ethnic communities like Sherpa and Kirat. Although, this area is somewhat isolated, it is for sure that, every visitor who every step here will take a memorable reminiscence with them for their lifetime. Makalu is the only Nepalese (8,000m.) peak which has yet to be climbed in true winter conditions.

Mt. Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco. Franco, G. Magnone and Sirdar Gyaltsen Norbu summited the next day successfully, followed by Bouvier, S. Coupe, Leroux and A. Vialatteon the 17th. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route. Since the first climb to the top, several successful attempts had been made to the top of the peak. Makalu bears a pyramid shape. South East and the North West Ridges being the most prominent compared to other. Among these two, the North Western ridge route is used by most of the mountaineers to reach the top of the peak. Mt. Makalu Expedition in Nepal is full of adventures as well as dangers too. The Russian team scaled the west route, which is considered the most dangerous route, in 1997. They reach the top on 21st May 1997 following the most challenging route. Climbing Makalu is test of the sheer endurance of a climber.

Mt. Makalu Climbing Route:
Mt. Makalu has fixed five routes by every expedition team and four variations along with other interesting opportunities like the West Face, the Northeast from Nepal and North Flanks from Tibet. Our trek follows one of the most remote and unfrequented areas of Nepal. Starting fly to Tumlingtar and drive to Chichila or Num from where we start to walk towards Arun River, we walk through the snow, rain and cloud prone Kauma. The base camp is normally set at around 5,600m., and then four camps follow before reaching the top. The Camp - 1 is at 6,100m., Camp - 2 is at 6500m., the Camp - 3 is at 7400m. and the Camp - 4 is at 7800m. Makalu Base Camp is just south of the snout of the Barun Glacier at an elevation of (4,823m.) Finally, after the climbing of Mt. Makalu expedition, our trip will finish at Tumlingtar plateau where we take plane to fly in to Kathmandu directly.

Note:
1. If you have your own private group or team, please e-mail us to know the price and details of expedition.
2. Looking to join a group?, if so, feel free to contact us for more information.

Note for expedition participants:
Expedition service up to Base Camp: This applies to those who have booked the expedition service - up to Base Camp. The cost does not include the High Altitude (H. A.) Sherpa guide, food and fuel, tents, climbing gear, fixed ropes up to the summit, or the Sherpa’s bonus beyond Advance Base Camp.

Additional Cost for a High Altitude Climbing Sherpa: USD 4,500 (If required by client).

The additional cost for a High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (H. A.) includes: equipment allowance, daily wages, food and fuel from base camp to summit, helicopter rescue coverage, medical expenses, accident insurance for the Sherpa, all ground transportation, domestic flight tickets (Kathmandu–Tumlingtar–Kathmandu) and a personal sleeping tent at base camp, among other essentials.

Summit Bonus for a High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (H. A.): USD 500 for reaching Camp at 8,000m, plus USD 500 for climbing from 8,000m to the summit - total USD 1000. This amount is payable on the spot (ABC) by the climbing member and applies only to those climber who purchase expedition service - up to summit.

We will provide the expedition cost based on your group size and specific service requirements. Please feel free to email us or use the 'Book Expedition' form to send us your inquiry.

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