Trip Overview

Departure Detail
Spring Season                                                                                     Autumn Season
Kathmandu Arrival Date: April 07, 2025                              Kathmandu Arrival Date: September 07, 2025
Expedition Fixed Departure Date: April 10, 2025              Expedition Fixed Departure Date: Sept. 10, 2025

Mt. Lhotse Middle highest un-climbed subsidiary peak in the world, close to Lhotse main, the 4th highest peak of the world, to the west and Lhotse Shar the only slightly lower east peak of Lhotse to the east. Both other peaks have already been climbed. The Lhotse group lies directly to the south of Everest. Several expeditions have tried to climb Lhotse middle, but unsuccessfully. One of the problems is the fact that there are no ridges leading directly to the summit so first Lhotse main or, Lhotse Shar have to be tackled. Mt. Lhotse Middle remained, for a long time, its first ascent was made by Eugeny Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov of a Russian expedition on May 23, 2001 at 03:00 pm. The Lhotse climbing standard route follows the same path as Everest's South Col route up to the Yellow Band beyond Camp 3. After the Yellow Band the routes diverge with climbers bound for Everest taking a left over the Geneva Spur up to the South Col, while Lhotse climbers take a right further up the Lhotse face. The last part to the summit leads through a narrow couloir until the Lhotse main peak is reached.

This Lhotse Middle expedition requires a high level of climbing proficiency on steep, exposed and technical skill and altitude experience is mandatory. It's an ideal climb designed for previous our Everest climbers or those who have tested climbs at 7000m. +. All members will participate in a training session at base camp to make sure we are all on the same page with safety protocol and technical skills. To shorten the time spent in the ice fall in gaining acclimatization needed to ascend safely we test ourselves on higher objectives in the area. We provide a Camp 1 at but it is mainly used as stopover and emergency camp if needed. The plan will be for everyone to be prepared enough to move directly to Camp 2 (6,400m.), spend two nights and then move up to Camp 3 (7,200m.) on the Lhotse Face. We'll spend one night here before descending back to Camp 2 then the next day back to Base Camp where we will wait till the route has been established and camp provisions are in place for the summit push.

Note:
If you have your own private group or team, please e-mail us to know the price and details of expedition.
If you are alone and looking for a group to join then visit our fix-departure expedition information.

 

Expedition Outline Itinerary: Spring 2025

07 April - Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m.), meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
08 April - Day 02: Preparation for Expedition.
09 April - Day 03: Official work for expedition and briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
10 April - Day 04: Flight to Lukla (2,860m.) then trek to Phakding (2,622m.).
11 April - Day 05: Phakding – Namche Bazar (3,440m.).
12 April - Day 06: Rest day for acclimatization and hiking around.
13 April - Day 07: Namche Bazar – Tengboche (3,867m.).
14 April - Day 08: Tengboche – Dingboche (4,343m.).
15 April - Day 09: Dingboche – Labuche (4,915m.).
16 April - Day 10: Lobuche – Everest Base Camp (5,380m.).
17 April/13 May Day 11/37: Climbing Period for Mt. Lhotse East (Lhotse Middle 8,413m.).
14 May - Day 38: Cleaning up Base Camp and backpack.
15 May - Day 39: Trek back to Pheriche (4,343m.).
16 May - Day 40: Pheriche – Tengboche (3,837m.).
17 May - Day 41: Tengboche – Namche Bazar (3,440m.).
18 May - Day 42: Namche Bazar – Lukla and transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
19 May - Day 43: Fly back to Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
20 May - Day 44: Kathmandu free for D-briefing and rest, farewell dinner at evening.
21 May - Day 45: Last minute, transfer to airport for your onward journey.

Expedition Outline Itinerary: Autumn 2025

07 September - Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m.), meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
08 September - Day 02: Preparation for Expedition.
09 September - Day 03: Official work for expedition and briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
10 September - Day 04: Flight to Lukla (2,860m.) then trek to Phakding (2,622m.).
11 September - Day 05: Phakding – Namche Bazar (3,440m.).
12 September - Day 06: Rest day for acclimatization and Hiking around.
13 September - Day 07: Namche Bazar – Tengboche (3,867m.).
14 September - Day 08: Tengboche – Dingboche (4,343m.).
15 September - Day 09: Dingboche – Labuche (4,915m.).
16 September - Day 10: Lobuche – Everest Base Camp (5,380m.).
17 Sept./13 Oct. Day 11/37: Climbing Period for Mt. Lhotse East (Middle 8,413m.).
14 October - Day 38: Cleaning up Base Camp and backpack.
15 October - Day 39: Trek back to Pheriche (4,343m.).
16 October - Day 40: Pheriche – Tengboche (3,837m.).
17 October - Day 41: Tengboche – Namche Bazar (3,440m.).
18 October - Day 42: Namche Bazar – Lukla and transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
19 October - Day 43: Fly back to Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
20 October - Day 44: Kathmandu free for D-briefing and rest, farewell dinner at evening.
21 October - Day 45: Last minute, transfer to airport for your onward journey.

Service Includes up to Base Camp

  • All land transportation by Car, Van, Jeep, Toyota Hiace or, Tourist Bus. (Airport/Hotel/Airport, expedition pick up and drop).
  • 5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel on Bed & Breakfast plan (before and after expedition).
  • Air Ticket: Kathmandu/Lukla/Kathmandu for member, Liaison officer and Expedition staffs.
  • Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Camp and back.
  • Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back.
  • Base Camp single sleeping tent and Mattress for each member, Base Camp staffs and Liaison officer.
  • All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table, chairs and cooking utensils for Base Camp.
  • Food and fuel at Base Camp.
  • Service of Government Liaison officer.
  • Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
  • Equipments allowance, daily wages of cook, kitchen boys and Liaison officer.
  • Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison officer and porters.
  • Expedition Permit fee of Mt. Lhotse East or Middle.
  • Khumbu area entrance and Sagarmatha National Park entrance fee.
  • Per Person 50 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels allowed for expedition till Base Camp.
  • Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels is allowed for returned to Kathmandu.
  • 2 Expedition duffel bag or Barrel for each member.
  • Generator or Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
  • Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
  • Emergency medical Oxygen bottle with Mask and regulator at Base Camp.
  • Visa extension fee.
  • Garbage deposit fees.
  • Official tax and agency service charge.

Service does not include

  • International airfare: To and from your country.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport at upon arrival).
  • Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
  • Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu.
  • Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
  • High Tents above Base Camp.
  • High altitude food and fuel above Base Camp.
  • Oxygen bottle with Mask and regulator (will be provided as per request).
  • Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
  • Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, Walkie Talkies, communication equipment and commercial filming.
  • International airport departure tax at Kathmandu Airport.
  • Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
  • Tips and summit bonus.

Expedition service up to Summit

Expedition service does not include

Hiring High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (Guide): USD 3000 Per Sherpa (If required by Member)

Note:

  • We will provide you the expedition cost as per your size of group or, as per your requirement for the expedition service. We request you to e-mail us or, use "Book Expedition" form for send us your message.
  • Above given cost does not include the climbing Sherpa’s food and fuel, tents, climbing gears and summit bonus above advance base camp.
  • Hiring a high altitude Sherpa does cost includes equipment allowances, daily wages, food and fuel up to base camp, insurance, Kathmandu/Lukla/Kathmandu and sleeping tents at BC etc.

Summit Bonus: Camp 8000m. = USD 500 and over 8000m. to summit= USD 500 = 1000 USD extra payable for climbing Sherpa on the spot.

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