Departure Detail
Spring Season Autumn Season
Kathmandu Arrival Date: April 07, 2026 Kathmandu Arrival Date: September 07, 2026
Expedition Fixed Departure Date: April 10, 2026 Expedition Fixed Departure Date: Sept. 10, 2026
Mt. Lhotse Middle highest un-climbed subsidiary peak in the world, close to Lhotse main, the 4th highest peak of the world, to the west and Lhotse Shar the only slightly lower east peak of Lhotse to the east. Both other peaks have already been climbed. The Lhotse group lies directly to the south of Everest. Several expeditions have tried to climb Lhotse middle, but unsuccessfully. One of the problems is the fact that there are no ridges leading directly to the summit so first Lhotse main or, Lhotse Shar have to be tackled. Mt. Lhotse Middle remained, for a long time, its first ascent was made by Eugeny Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov of a Russian expedition on May 23, 2001 at 03:00 pm. The Lhotse climbing standard route follows the same path as Everest's South Col route up to the Yellow Band beyond Camp 3. After the Yellow Band the routes diverge with climbers bound for Everest taking a left over the Geneva Spur up to the South Col, while Lhotse climbers take a right further up the Lhotse face. The last part to the summit leads through a narrow couloir until the Lhotse main peak is reached.
This Lhotse Middle expedition requires a high level of climbing proficiency on steep, exposed and technical skill and altitude experience is mandatory. It's an ideal climb designed for previous our Everest climbers or those who have tested climbs at 7000m. +. All members will participate in a training session at base camp to make sure we are all on the same page with safety protocol and technical skills. To shorten the time spent in the ice fall in gaining acclimatization needed to ascend safely we test ourselves on higher objectives in the area. We provide a Camp 1 at but it is mainly used as stopover and emergency camp if needed. The plan will be for everyone to be prepared enough to move directly to Camp 2 (6,400m), spend two nights and then move up to Camp 3 (7,200m) on the Lhotse Face. We'll spend one night here before descending back to Camp 2 then the next day back to Base Camp where we will wait till the route has been established and camp provisions are in place for the summit push.
Note:
1. If you have your own private group or team, please e-mail us to know the price and details of expedition.
2. Looking to join a group? if so, feel free to contact us for more information.
07 April - Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m), meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
08 April - Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu, preparation and briefing about trip at evening.
09 April - Day 03: Official work for expedition and briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
10 April - Day 04: Flight to Lukla (2,860m) then trek to Phakding (2,622m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
11 April - Day 05: Phakding – Namche Bazar (3,440m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
12 April - Day 06: Rest day for acclimatization and hiking around. O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
13 April - Day 07: Namche Bazar – Tengboche (3,867m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
14 April - Day 08: Tengboche – Dingboche (4,343m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
15 April - Day 09: Dingboche – Lobuche (4,915m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
16 April - Day 10: Lobuche – Lhotse/Everest Base Camp (5,380m.). Set up Camp. O/N at Camping.
17 April/13 May Day 11/37: Climbing Period for Mt. Lhotse East (Lhotse Middle 8,413m) - Full Camping.
14 May - Day 38: Cleaning up Base Camp and backpack. O/N at Camping.
15 May - Day 39: Trek back to Pheriche (4,343m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
16 May - Day 40: Pheriche – Tengboche (3,837m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
17 May - Day 41: Tengboche – Namche Bazar (3,440m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
18 May - Day 42: Namche Bazar – Lukla and transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
19 May - Day 43: Fly back to Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
20 May - Day 44: Kathmandu free for D-briefing and rest, farewell dinner at evening.
21 May - Day 45: Last minute, transfer to airport for your onward journey. Final Departure.
07 September - Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m), meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
08 September - Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu, preparation and briefing about trip at evening.
09 September - Day 03: Official work for expedition and briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
10 September - Day 04: Flight to Lukla (2,860m), trek to Phakding (2,622m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
11 September - Day 05: Phakding – Namche Bazar (3,440m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
12 September - Day 06: Rest day for acclimatization and Hiking around. O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
13 September - Day 07: Namche Bazar – Tengboche (3,867m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
14 September - Day 08: Tengboche – Dingboche (4,343m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
15 September - Day 09: Dingboche – Lobuche (4,915m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
16 September - Day 10: Lobuche – Lhotse/Everest Base Camp (5,380m)- Set up Camping. O/N at Camping.
17 Sept./13 Oct. Day 11/37: Climbing Period for Mt. Lhotse East (Middle 8,413m) - Full Camping.
14 October - Day 38: Cleaning up Base Camp and backpack. O/N at Camping.
15 October - Day 39: Trek back to Pheriche (4,343m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
16 October - Day 40: Pheriche – Tengboche (3,837m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
17 October - Day 41: Tengboche – Namche Bazar (3,440m). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
18 October - Day 42: Namche Bazar – Lukla Bazar and transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
19 October - Day 43: Flight back from Lukla to Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
20 October - Day 44: Kathmandu free for D-briefing and rest, farewell dinner at evening.
21 October - Day 45: Last minute, transfer to airport for your onward journey. Final Departure.
Tipping System:
Tipping is done on a group-sharing basis by expedition participants. The minimum recommended amounts are:
1. Base Camp Guide & Cook: Min. USD 300 each.
2. BC Kitchen Boys/Helpers: Min. USD 200 each.
3. Porters: Min. USD 50 each.
Tipping System:
Tipping is done on a group-sharing basis by expedition participants. The minimum recommended amounts are:
1. Base Camp Guide & Cook: Min. USD 300 each.
2. BC Kitchen Boys/Helpers: Min. USD 200 each.
3. Porters: Min. USD 50 each.
Note for expedition participants:
Expedition service up to Base Camp: This applies to those who have booked the expedition service - up to Base Camp. The cost does not include the High Altitude (H. A.) Climbing Sherpa guide, food and fuel, tents, climbing gear, fixed ropes up to the summit, or the Sherpa’s bonus beyond Advance Base Camp.Additional Cost for a High Altitude Climbing Sherpa: USD 4,500 (If required by client).
The additional cost for a High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (H. A.) includes: Expedition equipment allowance, Personal climbing gears, daily wages, food and fuel from base camp to summit, helicopter rescue coverage, medical expenses, accident insurance for the Sherpa, all ground transportation, domestic flight tickets (Kathmandu–Lukla–Kathmandu or Ramechhap–Lukla–Ramechhap), and a personal sleeping tent at base camp, among other essentials.
Summit Bonus for High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (H. A.): USD 500 for reaching Camp at 8,000m, plus USD 1000 for climbing from 8,000m to the summit - total USD 1500. This amount is payable on the spot (ABC) by the climbing member and applies only to those climber who purchase expedition services - up to summit.
We will provide the expedition cost based on your group size and specific service requirements. Please feel free to email us or use the 'Book Expedition' form to send us your inquiry.