Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing

Trip Overview

Kyajo Ri (6151m.) Climbing is known as Kyazo Ri Peak is a semi technical peak situated in the Khumbu region, Nepal. Kyajo Ri is lies in the Mahalangur Range among a long line of peaks continuing all the way to Cho Oyu border between Nepal and Tibet. With the Thame valley to the west and the Gokyo valley to the east the high Kyajo Ri is the highest summit on the southern part of this ridge. Since it has not been long since Kyajo Ri was open for climbing, adventure enthusiasts who are looking to summit the mountain can do so without having to deal with a lot of crowd. More importantly, you can enjoy your journey to the summit and back in its full glory. Trekking through the Everest region offers astounding mountain views and an opportunity to get a glimpse of the lifestyle of the world famous climbers (the Sherpas). Our 19-day journey begins with a spectacular and an enthralling mountain flight to Tenzing Hillary airport at Lukla. The trip continues by trekking in the amazing hilly and mountainous regions of Nepal. Next, we achieve our ultimate objective of summiting Kyajo Ri before heading back to Kathmandu to end an excellent trip to the Khumbu Himalayas.

History:
The peak was opened to climbing by the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism, in 2002 and the first (official) ascent was made that year by a Franco/British team. They approached from Machhermo, traversed the Kyajo Glacier and climbed via the Southwest Ridge. The same route was repeated in 2003 by a French team as an acclimatization outing in preparation for the difficult North Face of Machharmo peak, which they then climbed (Bonfire of the Vanities). Also in 2003, a Dutch team climbed the Southwest Ridge route after failing on an attempt of the east face. In 2005 an American team climbed the more difficult Southeast Ridge establishing only the second route on the peak. There have been a few other attempts on the mountain – an Australian in 2005 and an American in the spring of 2006, a Korean (perhaps), and possibly others.

Difficulty:
There is significant technical climbing at high altitude. Summit day is very long and tiring. The approach trek to base Camp is not overly difficult and is suitable for experienced off-trail hikers in good condition. In difficulty it is probably comparable to the Cho La route, or to treks that cross the Renjo La, and perhaps a bit harder than the Kala Patar trek near Everest Base Camp.

Base Camp to Camp - 1 is a long way, and a hard day over rough, but non-technical terrain. Camp 2 is not so far from Camp 1 but the intervening climbing is occasionally over difficult tall us and giant boulders.

Camp - 2 We are able to move together a short way, then soon begin belayed climbing. We climb about 12 pitches of steep snow and ice, to perhaps 65° in steepness for one or two pitches just below the summit. We will belay, lower and rappel the same route on descent. Overall, the difficulty is comparable to the summit day on Ama Dablam. Kyajo Ri is significantly harder physically and technically than Lobuche West - East or Island Peak.

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