Cultural Treks & Expedition Nepal

Expedition in Nepal, with Cultural Treks - tour, travel, rafting and trekking in Nepal

Kyazo Ri Climbing
Home » Peak Climbing Nepal » Kyazo Ri Climbing

Kyazo Ri Peak Climbing - 21 Days

Kyajo Ri Peak ClimbingKyazo Ri peak is located in the Khumbu Himal, running just north side of Namche Bazaar, is a long line of peaks continuing all the way to Cho Oyu on the Nepalese-Tibetan border. With the Thame valley to the west and the Gokyo valley to the east the 6186 meter (20,290 feet) high Kyazo Ri (Kyajo Ri) is the highest summit on the southern part of this ridge.

 

History:

Kyajo Ri Peak ClimbingThe peak was opened to climbing by the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism, in 2002 and the first (official) ascent was made that year by a Franco/British team. They approached from Machhermo, traversed the Kyazo Glacier and climbed via the Southwest Ridge. The same route was repeated in 2003 by a French team as an acclimatization outing in preparation for the difficult North Face of Machharmo peak, which they then climbed (Bonfire of the Vanities). Also in 2003, a Dutch team climbed the Southwest Ridge route after failing on an attempt of the east face. In 2005 an American team climbed the more difficult Southeast Ridge establishing only the second route on the peak. There have been a few other attempts on the mountain – an Australian in 2005 and an American in the spring of 2006, a Korean (perhaps), and possibly others.

Difficulty:

This is a difficult expedition. There is significant technical climbing at high altitude. Summit day is very long and tiring. The approach trek to base Camp is not overly difficult and is suitable for experienced off-trail hikers in good condition. In difficulty it is probably comparable to the Cho La route, or to treks that cross the Renjo La, and perhaps a bit harder than the Kala Patar trek near Everest Base Camp.

Base Camp to Camp - 1
is a long way, and a hard day over rough, but non-technical terrain. Camp 2 is not so far from Camp 1 but the intervening climbing is occasionally over difficult tall us and giant boulders.

From Camp - 2 we are able to move together a short way, then soon begin belayed climbing. We climb about 12 pitches of steep snow and ice, to perhaps 65° in steepness for one or two pitches just below the summit. We will belay, lower and rappel the same route on descent. Overall, the difficulty is comparable to the summit day on Ama Dablam. Kyazo Ri is significantly harder physically and technically than Lobuche East-East or Island Peak.

 

Expedition Itinerary: A

Caravan Route: Lukla-Namche Bazar-Gokyo Lake-Kyazo Ri Peak Base Camp

  • Hotel/Lodges/Camping
  • 21 Days Trek/Climbing
  • Grade: Mountaineering
  • Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
  • Accommodation: 4 Nights KTM and 16 Nights Lodges/Camping
  • Best Season: Spring and Autumn


Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.
Day 02: Free day for preparation and official briefing.
Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2800m.) and trek to Phakding, 2652m. Lodge.
Day 04: Phakding - Namche Bazaar (3,440 m.-11,283 ft): 5-6 hrs
Day 05: Namche Bazaar (3,440 m.-11,283 ft):
Day 06: Namche Bazzar, Dole (4,110 m.-13,152 ft): 5-6 hrs
Day 07: Dole - Machherma (4,470 m.-14,663 ft): 4-5 hrs
Day 08: Machharma - Gokyo (4800 m.-15,744 ft): 3-4 hrs
Day 09: Gokyo-Lungden 4,600m.-15,088ft,Renjo-La Pass 5,435.-17,827ft.
Day 10: Trek down to Thame and Mende (3736 m.-12,255 ft): 5-6 hrs
Day 11: Trek to Kyazo Ri base camp (4550m.-14925 ft): 5-6 hrs
Day 12: Rest Day at Kyazo Ri Base Camp
Day 13: Trek to Camp I (5200m.-17056 ft): 4-5 hrs
Day 14: Trek to Camp II (5700m.-18696 ft): 5-6 hrs
Day 15: Summit Kyazo Ri 6186m. and Back to Camp II: 10-12 hrs
Day 16: Contingency Day
Day 17: Trek back to Kyazo Ri Base Camp: 7-8 hrs
Day 18: Namche Bazaar – Lukla and transfer to Tea House Lodge.
Day 19: Lukla – Kathmandu by scheduled flight and transfer to Hotel.
Day 20: Kathmandu free.
Day 21: Last Minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey.

Optional - Expedition Itinerary: B

Caravan Route: Lukla-Namche Bazar-Thame-Mende-Kyazo Ri Base Camp

  • Hotel/Lodges/Camping
  • 15 Days Trek/Climbing
  • Grade: Mountaineering
  • Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
  • Accommodation: 4 Nights KTM and 14 Nights Lodges/Camping
  • Best Season: Spring and Autumn


Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.
Day 02: Free day for preparation and official briefing.
Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2800m.), trek to Phakding, 2652m. Lodge.
Day 04: Phakding – Namche Bazaar, 3440m.
Day 05: Namche Bazaar Rest for Acclimatization.
Day 06: Namche Bazaar – Thame 3800m.
Day 07: Thame - Mende, 3740m. (12,270ft).
Day 08: Mende- Kyazo Ri Peak Base Camp 4550m. (14,900ft).
Day 09: Rest and preparation day at Base Camp.
Day 10 -13: Set up High Camp at 5350m. (17,550ft.). Climbing Period.
Day 14: Ascent Summit Kyazo Ri Peak (6186m.) Return to Base Camp
Day 15: Clean the Base Camp and trek back to Namche bazaar.
Day 16: Namche Bazaar – Lukla and transfer to Tea House Lodge.
Day 17: Lukla – Kathmandu by scheduled flight and transfer to Hotel.
Day 18: Kathmandu free.
Day 19: Last Minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey.

Peak Climbing Cost:

USD 2000 Per Person. (Spring season)

USD 1950 Per Person. (Autumn season)

USD 1850 Per Person. (Winter/Summer season)


Expedition Service includes: 
 

  • Land transportation by Car, Van, Hiace, tourist & local Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport & trekking pick up & drop).
  • 4 Nights Accommodation in Kathmandu at bed & breakfast plan as per given itinerary.
  • Transportation of all food and climbing equipments to Base Camp & back.
  • Kyazo Ri Peak permit fee.
  • Full board basis during the trekking in Teahouse Lodge and tented camp.
  • All kitchen equipments; kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent at the Base Camp.
  • 1 Trekking + Climbing guide, Cook, Kitchen boys and necessary Porter.
  • Base camp tents for members and staff.
  • Climbing Guide equipment charges and his daily wages as well as Insurance and all crews daily wages.
  • Per Person 15 KG. Equipment’s luggage, barrels allowed till to Base Camp.
  • National Park Conservation Fee.
  • Garbage deposit.
  • Visa extension.
  • Air fare: Kathmandu/Lukla/Kathmandu and domestic airport tax with Cargo fees.
  • Satellite phone (Pay calls).
  • Agency taxes and service charges.

 

Service Does Not Include:

  • Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
  • Airfare from/to your country.
  • Nepal entry visa fee. (Can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
  • Hotel after 5 nights stay in Kathmandu.
  • Drinks except tea and coffee. (Hot water, mineral water and cold drinks is not included)
  • Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
  • Walki -Takie permit & Satellite phone permit.
  • Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical and emergency evacuation.
  • Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone, etc.
  • International airport departure tax.
  • Tips and climbing bonus.

Book This Trip

Contact Us

Photo gallery
Ladakh Zanskar Trek
Base Camp Trekking
Special Offer

Contact Address

Cultural Treks & Expedition
GPO Box: 13309, Bhagawatisthan,
Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal
Tel: +977.14415078, 4267211
info@culturaltreks.com culturaltreks@gmail.com