Kyajo Ri (Kyazo Ri) Expedition-30 Days
This peak is located in the
Khumbu Himal, running just north of Namche Bazaar, is a long line of peaks
continuing all the way to Cho Oyu on the
Nepalese-Tibetan border. With the Thame valley to the west and the Gokyo valley
to the east the 6186 meter (20,290 feet) high Kyajo Ri (Kyazo Ri) is the
highest summit on the southern part of this ridge.
History
The peak was opened to climbing by the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism, in 2002 and the first (official) ascent was made that year by a Franco/British team. They approached from Machhermo, traversed the Kyajo Glacier and climbed via the Southwest Ridge. The same route was repeated in 2003 by a French team as an acclimatization outing in preparation for the difficult North Face of Machharmo peak, which they then climbed (Bonfire of the Vanities). Also in 2003, a Dutch team climbed the Southwest Ridge route after failing on an attempt of the east face. In 2005 An American team climbed the more difficult Southeast Ridge establishing only the second route on the peak. There have been a few other attempts on the mountain – an Australian in 2005 and an American in the spring of 2006, a Korean (perhaps), and possibly others.
Difficulty
This is a difficult expedition. There is significant technical climbing at high altitude. Summit day is very long and tiring. The approach trek to base Camp is not overly difficult and is suitable for experienced off-trail hikers in good condition. In difficulty it is probably comparable to the Cho La route, or to treks that cross the Renjo La, and perhaps a bit harder than the Kala Patar trek near Everest Base Camp.
Base Camp to Camp- 1 is a long way, and a hard day over rough, but non-technical terrain. Camp 2 is not so far from Camp 1 but the intervening climbing is occasionally over difficult tall us and giant boulders.
From Camp- 2 we are able to move together a short way, then soon begin belayed climbing. We climb about 12 pitches of steep snow and ice, to perhaps 65° in steepness for one or two pitches just below the summit. We will belay, lower and rappel the same route on descent. Overall, the difficulty is comparable to the summit day on Ama Dablam. Kyajo Ri is significantly harder physically and technically than Lobuche East-East or Island Peak.
Latitude: 65° 05’ 37”. Mahalangur
Longitude: ……..
First time scaled by: Franco - British team 2003. UK.
Normal Ascent Route: South west Ridge
Expedition Itinerary:
- Hotel/Lodges/Camping
- 30 Days Trek/Climbing
- Grade: Mountaineering
- Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
- Accommodation: 5 Nights KTM & 24 Nights Lodges/Camping
- Season: Spring & Autumn
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.
Day 02: Kathmandu free.
Day 03: Official works for expedition & at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 04: Fly to Lukla 2860m. and trek to Phakding (2622m.) or Manjo.
Day 05: Phakding or Manjo - Namche Bazaar (3440m.)
Day 06: Namche rest for acclimatization.
Day 07: Namche – Dole (4,200m.).
Day 08: Dole – Machharmo (4,410m.).
Day 09: Machharmo – Gokyo Lake. (4,750m.).
Day 10: Gokyo Ri 5360 meters (17580 feet) and return to Gokyo.
Day 11: Gokyo- Renjo La pass at 5411m. (17,750'). continue down the west side of the pass, descending all the way down to Lungden at 4500m. (14,760').
Day 12: Lungden –Thame at 3800m. (12,500').
Day 13: Thame we turn east, heading back in the direction of Namche Bazar and almost completing an entire circumnavigation of Kyajo Ri. We will camp in Mende, 3740m. (12,270') a small town at the entrance of the Kyajo Drangka.
Day 14: Above Mende we leave the main trails and follow a faint yak trail up over a couple passes to enter the Kyajo Drangka; the isolated broad valley south of our peak. It is a longish day to Base Camp, which we place at about 4550m. (14,900').
Day 15: Rest and preparation day at Base camp.
Day 16: Set up Camp I at the base of the Kyajo Glacier at about 5350m. (17,550'). This is a great location for high camp, on level ground, with good views and within easy reach of water flowing out from the frozen lake at the foot of the Glacier. Return to Base Camp.
Day 17 – 25: Climbing period for Kyojo Ri Peak (6186m.)
Day 26: Clean the Base Camp and trek back to Namche bazaar.
Day 27: Namche Bazaar – Lukla.
Day 28: Lukla – Kathmandu by flight and transfer to Hotel.
Day 29: Kathmandu free.
Day 30: Last Minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey.
Expedition Cost in group joining basis;
USD 2200 Per Person. (Spring season)
USD 2000 Per Person. (Autumn season)
USD 1900 Per Person. (Winter/Summer season)
Expedition Service includes:
- Land transportation by Car, Van, Hiace, tourist & local Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport & trekking pick up & drop).
- 5 Nights Accommodation in Kathmandu at a tourist class Hotel on bed & breakfast plan as per given itinerary.
- Transportation of all food and climbing equipments to base camp and back.
- Peak permit fee.
- Full board basis during the trekking in Teahouse Lodge and tented camp.
- All kitchen equipments; kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent at the Base Camp.
- Cook and Kitchen boys at the Base Camp.
- Base Camp tents for members and staff.
- 1 English speaking climbing guide with his daily wages and equipment charge.
- Per Person 40 KG. Equipment’s luggage, barrels allowed till to Base Camp.
- National Park Conservation Fee.
- Garbage Deposit.
- Visa extension.
- Air fare: KTM/Lukla/KTM & domestic airport tax with Cargo fees.
- Satellite phone (Pay calls).
- Official taxes & Agency service charges.
Service does not include:
- Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
- Airfare from/to your country.
- Nepal entry visa fee. (Can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
- Hotel after 6 nights stay in Kathmandu.
- Service above Base Camp.
- Drinks except tea and coffee. (Hot water, mineral water and cold drinks is not included)
- Personal climbing gear and equipment above base camp.
- Walki-Takie permit & Satellite phone permit.
- Oxygen & Mask -regulator for climbing.
- Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical and emergency evacuation.
- Climbing Guide (Sherpa).
- Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods arriving to Nepal by air or road.
- Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone, etc.
- International airport departure tax & tourist tax.
- Tips and climbing bonus.
