Ama Dablam (6,812m.) & Pumori (7,145m.) Expedition

Autumn/Spring
Entry/Exit: Lukla (Khumbu Region)
Fixed Departure: Oct. 07, 10, 2008 – April 04, 2009

Mt. Ama Dablam has been considered the prettiest mountain in the world. High on her Southwest face hangs a glacier resembling a 'Dablam' - the sacred ornament box worn by ladies in the Sherpa community. It was this spectacular feature that got her the name "Ama Dablam". She lies alongside Everest in the heart of the Khumbu valley offering a superb diversions close up view of Mt. Everest & Mt Lhotse is the north, Mt. Makalu in the east and Mt. Cho Oyu is in west. Normally, three camps are set in Ama Dablam climbing above the base camp (4,570m), however, only two camps are used to spend the nights. The normal route for climbing is South-West Ridge. The ascent from Base Camp to camp 1st is considered one the difficult days of the expedition.

Mt. Pumori expedition Base camp will be set up at about 5300m. We climb through the glaciers for approximately 4 hours and reach Camp 1 at 5700m. From Camp 1, we climb 480m. on the face with 40 to 60 degrees slope and pass through a snow wall to reach camp 2 at 6200 meter on a narrow ridge. From camp 2, we climb approximately 450 meter through ice with 30-60 degrees slopes passing through ice walls and crevasses. This section is prone to avalanches from big seracs hanging on the shoulder above. Camp 3 will be set up at an altitude of 6, 480meter on the ridge. Passing through crevasses, we climb up to Pumori cliff and then to the summit. There are many mountaineers climbing Pumori, check their technical skills and their feelings as well as experience of climbing Himalayas in Nepal to prepare for 8000 meter peaks in Nepal for the future climbing plan.

Experience Required: All climbers need to have good skills on rock and ice climbing and technically competent. On most parts of the routes there will be fixed rope, however, the climbers should posses skills of climbing through steep rock and hard compact ice. We follow the standard South West ridge route (normal route) to the top, as it is consider the safe route, free from the objective danger such as avalanche and so on. The route we follow begins at Lukla (2850m) and the initial days of the trek pass through the legendary Sherpa country up the spectacular high valley of the Khumbu. Most of the route on the actual climbing is fixed with no icefall or glacier to negotiate, and most of it is concentrated on the crest of a ridge. The climb is relatively safe though exposed and sheep and not really a mountain for debutantes. We have designed the programs to climb Island Peak 6189m. before go to Ama Dablam Expedition. It is easier for those people who like to get summit of Ama Dablam. Climbing Pumori requires a moderate technical climb on ice and snow. The normal route for the climbing is South East Ridge.  We have designed the expedition itinerary for those climbers who like to do combined expedition in Nepal.

Expedition Itinerary:

Hotel/ Lodges/ Camping
44 Days Trek/Climbing
Grade: Mountaineering
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 6 Nights Kathmandu and 43 Nights Tea-house Lodges/Camping
Season: Winter, Spring & Autumn

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.
Day 02: Kathmandu free.
Day 03: Official works for expedition and briefing by officer of Ministry of Tourism.
Day 04: Kathmandu – Lukla 2860m by flight and trek to Phakding 2622m.
Day 05: Phakding - Namche Bazaar 3440.
Day 06: Namche Bazaar Acclimatization.
Day 07: Namche Bazaar – Thyangboche 3867m.
Day 08: Thyangboche – Ama Dablam Base Camp 4600m.
Day 09-23: Climbing Period for Ama Dablam 6812m.
Day 24: Ama Dablam BC Clean up – Pheriche 4342m.
Day 25: Pheriche – Lobuche 4915m.
Day 26: Lobuche – Pumori Base Camp.
Day 27- 41: Climbing Period of Pumori 7145m.
Day 42: Pumori Base Camp Clean up – Lobuche.
Day 43: Lobuche – Thyangboche.
Day 44: Thyangboche – Namche Bazaar.
Day 45: Namche – Phakding.
Day 46: Phakding – Lukla and transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
Day 47: Lukla – Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
Day 48: Kathmandu free.
Day 49: Kathmandu free.
Day 50: Last minute, transfer to airport for onward journey

Expedition Cost in group joining basis;

US $ / Euro          Per Person
Climbing Sherpa: Per Sherpa US $ 1900 + 1900 (if required by climber)

Service includes:

• All land transportation: Airport /Hotel/Airport, trekking, expedition pick up & drop.
• 6 Nights Accommodation in Kathmandu at a tourist class Hotel on bed & breakfast plan as per given itinerary.
• Transport as per itinerary for members, staff and Liaison Officer.
• Transportation of all food and climbing equipments to base camp and back.
• Peak permits fee.
• Full board during the trekking.
• All kitchen equipments; kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, shower tent, chairs and tables at the base camp.
• Cook and Kitchen boys at the base camp.
• Base camp tents for members and staff.
• Per Person 50 KG. Equipment’s luggage / barrels allowed till to Base Camp.
• Visa extension.
• Equipment allowance, wages and insurance for base camp staff and Liaison Officer.
• National Park Conservation Fee.
• Air fare: KTM/Lukla/ KTM & domestic airport tax with Cargo fees.
• Satellite phone (Pay calls).
• Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator.
• Helicopter rescue insurance for Nepalese staff.
• Agency service charges.

Service does not include:

• Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
• Airfare from / to your country.
• Nepal entry visa fee. (Can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
• Hotel after 6 days stay in Kathmandu.
• Service above Base Camp.
• Drinks except tea and coffee.
• Personal climbing gear and equipment above base camp.
• Walki -Takie permit & Satellite phone permit.
• Oxygen & Mask -regulator for climbing.
• Climbing Guide (Sherpa).
• Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical and emergency evacuation.
• Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods arriving to Nepal by air or road.
• Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone, etc.
• International airport departure tax & tourist tax.
• Tips and climbing bonus.
• Garbage deposit US $ 2000+2000 for a team. After expedition deposit will be refundable.

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