Mt. Kanchanjunga Main (8,586m.) Expedition

Spring/Autumn
Entry/Exit: Taplejung – Suketar
Fixed Departure: April 05, 2009 – Sept. 10, 2009

Kanchanjunga 8,586m. Mountain measurement goes it is the third highest mountain in the world. And sits astride the Nepal and Sikkim border (India) only a few miles from Tibet. In 1848-49 one of the greatest of British botanists J.D. Hooker, made two commendable trips to make an almost complete circuit of the Kanchanjunga range. But it was only in 1955, more than a century later, that a British expedition finally made summit of Kanchanjunga. This mountain was first climbed by Mr. George Christopher Band and Joe. Brown in 1955. In keeping with its name "five treasure houses of the great snows" the Kanchanjunga Mountain is a grand collection of shapely spires. It is unique in as much as it is buttressed north and south as well as east and west by mountains of equal stature. This multi-topped massif comprises of four summits. Each one measuring over eight thousand meter called Kanchanjunga Main (Main 8,586m.), Kanchanjunga (South 8,476m.,) Kanchanjunga (8,476m.) West Summit and Yalung-Kang 8,505m.

There are four different routes to the mountain peak with both its south and east side providing opportunities for new routes. It is believed that the east flank of the South Summit is by far the most difficult face route. Our trip starts from Taplejung to Base Camp through Dandagaon and Mitlung. And our trail back via another trekking route Selele, Milgin-La 4654m., Tseram 3770m. and end at Taplejung then we will take plane back to Kathmandu.

• Latitude: 27º 42’ 09”.
• Longitude: 88º 09 25”.
• First time scaled by: Mr. George Christopher Band & Joe Brown in May 25, 1955. UK
• Second time scaled by: Norman D. Hardie (New Zealand) & H.R. Anthony (Tony Streather) UK in May 26, 1955.
• Normal Ascent Route: South West Face.

Expedition Itinerary: A

Hotel/ Lodges/ Camping
44 Days Trek/Climbing
Grade: Mountaineering
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 6 Nights Kathmandu, 43 Nights Camping
Recommended Season: Winter, Spring & Autumn

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Preparation for Expedition or, free.
Day 03: Official works for expedition and briefing by officer of Ministry of Tourism.
Day 04: Drive to Taplejung Bazaar 1442m. and Over night.
Day 05: Taplejung rest for porter arrangement and preparation.
Day 05: Taplejung – Danda Gaon.
Day 06: Danda Gaon – Khesewa.
Day 07: Khesewa – Mamankhe.
Day 08: Mamakhe – Yamphudin 1721m.
Day 09: Yamphudin – Chittre (Omje Khola) 2400m.
Day 10: Chittre – Torontan 3070m.
Day 11: Torontan – Tseram 3700m.
Day 12: Tseram – Ramze Glacier Camp.
Day 13: Ramze – Glacier.
Day 14: Glacier – Kanchanjunga Base Camp ‘South).
Day 15 –40: Climbing period Kanchanjunga 8586m.
Day 41: Clean Base Camp and back to – Ramje.
Day 42: Ramje – Amije Khole.
Day 43: Amije – Yamphudin.
Day 44: Yamphuding – Khewang.
Day 45: Khewang – Panchami.
Day 46: Panchami – Ghopetar.
Day 47: Ghopetar drive to Biratnagar and fly back Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
Day 48: Kathmandu free.
Day 49: Kathmandu free.
Day 50: Last minute, transfer to airport for onward journey.

Expedition Itinerary: B

Hotel/ Lodges/ Camping
45 Days Trek/Climbing
Grade: Mountaineering
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 5 Nights Kathmandu, 44 Nights Camping
Recommended Season: Winter, Spring & Autumn

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Preparation for Expedition.
Day 03: Official works for expedition and briefing by officer of Ministry of Tourism.
Day 04: KTM – Biratnagar – Taplejung (Suketar) by flight then transfer to Tented Camp.
Day 05: Taplejung – Mitlung.
Day 06: Mitlung – Chirwa.
Day 07: Chirwa – Sokathom.
Day 08: Sokathom – Amjilessa.
Day 09: Amjilessa – Gepla.
Day 10: Gepla – Ghunsa.
Day 11: Ghunsa – Kambachen.
Day 12: Kambachen – Lhonak.
Day 13: Lhonak – Pangpema.
Day 14: Pangpema – Kanchanjunga Base Camp.
Day 15: Expedition Puja and Base Camp Preparation.
Day 16 – 36: Climbing period of Kanchanjunga 8,586m.
Day 37: Kanchanjunga Base Camp – Pangpema.
Day 38: Pangpema – Lhonak.
Day 39: Lhonak – Ghunsa.
Day 40: Ghunsa – Selele.
Day 41: Selele – Milgin-La 4654m.–Tseram 3770m.
Day 42: Tseram – Oktang – Torontan.
Day 43: Torontan – Omje Khola.
Day 44: Omje Khola – Mamankhe.
Day 45: Mamankhe – Khesewa Bhanjyang.
Day 46: Khesewa Bhasnjyang – Lali Kharka.
Day 47: Lali Kharka – Taplejung (Suketar) and transfer to Tented Camp near airport.
Day 48: Suketar – Kathmandu by early flight then transfer to Hotel.
Day 49: Kathmandu free.
Day 50: Last minute, transfer to airport for onward journey.

Expedition Cost in group joining basis;

US $ / Euro          Per Person
Climbing Sherpa: Per Sherpa US $ 1800 (if required by climber)

Service includes:

• 6 Nights Accommodation in Kathmandu at a tourist class Hotel on bed & breakfast plan as per given itinerary A.
• All land transportation: Airport /Hotel/Airport, trekking, expedition pick up & drop.
• 5 Nights Accommodation in Kathmandu at a tourist class Hotel on bed & breakfast plan as per given itinerary B.
• Transport as per itinerary for members, staff and Liaison Officer.
• Transportation of all food and climbing equipments to base camp and back.
• Peak permit fee.
• Full board basis during the trekking.
• All kitchen equipments; kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, shower tent, chairs and tables at the base camp.
• Cook and Kitchen boys at the base camp.
• Base camp tents for members and staff.
• Per Person 50 KG. Equipment’s luggage / barrels allowed till to Base Camp.
• Equipment allowance, wages and insurance for base camp staff and Liaison Officer.
• Reserve Bus drive to Taplejung Bazaar & back to Biratnagar & fly back to KTM, Itinerary A.
• Air fare: KTM/Biratnagar/Suketar/Biratnagar/KTM, Cargo fees & airport tax.
• National Park Conservation Fee.
• Visa extension.
• Satellite phone (Pay calls).
• Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator.
• Helicopter rescue insurance for Nepalese staff.
• Agency service charges.

Service does not include:

• Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
• Airfare from / to your country.
• Nepal entry visa fee. (Can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
• Hotel after 5/6 nights stay in Kathmandu.
• Service above Base Camp.
• Drinks except tea and coffee.
• Personal climbing gear and equipment above base camp.
• Walki -Takie permit & Satellite phone permit.
• Oxygen & Mask -regulator for climbing.
• Climbing guide (Sherpa).
• Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical and emergency evacuation.
• Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods arriving to Nepal by air or road.
• Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone, etc.
• International airport departure tax & tourist tax.
• Tips and climbing bonus.
• Garbage deposit US $ 3000.00 for a team. After expedition deposit will be refundable.

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