Island Peak (6189m.) & Ama Dablam (6,812m.) Expedition

Spring/Autumn
Entry/Exit: Lukla (Khumbu Region)
Fixed Departure: April 04, 2009 – Oct. 07, 10, 2009

It is named ‘Island Peak’ in 1952 due to its striking resemblance to a Island on a sea of ice, this mountain was renamed ‘Imje Tse’ in the early 80s.  Its original name is more often used, however.  First climbed by a team preparing for an Everest ascent in 1953, Island Peak has an impressive, highly glaciated West Face which rises from the Lhotse Glacier.  In fact, the mountain extends from the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated only by a small col.  Above this gap is the ridge leading to the summit.  From base camp, we will ascend gradually a steep grassy slope and rocky steps to high camp. It is necessary to climb a steep, exposed 300' snow and ice ramp to the summit ridge; fixed ropes will be used at this point in an otherwise non-technical snow climb. We will negotiate a final tricky snow pitch before reaching the summit. From here stunning views of the surrounding mountains can be seen from the peak, including Mt. Nuptse, Lhotse, Cho Polu, Makalu, Ama Dablam and Baruntse at the south east.

Beside this another adventure is Ama Dablam has been considered the prettiest mountain in the world. High on her Southwest face hangs a glacier resembling a 'Dablam' - the sacred ornament box worn by ladies in the Sherpa community. It was this spectacular feature that got her the name "Ama Dablam". She lies alongside Everest in the heart of the Khumbu valley offering a superb diversions close up view of Mt Lhotse, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Cho Oyu and Mt. Everest. Ama Dablam expedition requires steep ice, rock and snow climbing. Normally, three camps are set in Ama Dablam climbing above the base camp (4,570m), however, only two camps are used to spend the nights. The normal route for climbing is South-West Ridge. The ascent from Base Camp to camp 1st is considered one the difficult days of the expedition.

Experience Required: All climbers need to have good skills on rock and ice climbing and technically competent. On most parts of the routes there will be fixed rope, however, the climbers should posses skills of climbing through steep rock and hard compact ice. We follow the standard South West ridge route (normal route) to the top, as it is consider the safe route, free from the objective danger such as avalanche and so on. The route we follow begins at Lukla (2850m) and the initial days of the trek pass through the legendary Sherpa country up the spectacular high valley of the Khumbu region. Most of the route on the actual climbing is fixed with no icefall or glacier to negotiate, and most of it is concentrated on the crest of a ridge.

We have designed the itineraries to climb Island Peak 6,189 before go to Ama Dablam Expedition. It would be a good training and acclimatization to make your success to climb Mt. Ama Dablam.

Expedition Itinerary:

Hotel/ Lodges/ Camping
30 Days Trek/Climbing
Grade: Mountaineering
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 5 Nights Kathmandu and 29 Nights Tea-house Lodges/Camping
Season: Winter, Spring & Autumn

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.
Day 02: Kathmandu free.
Day 03: Official works for expedition and briefing by officer of Ministry of Tourism.
Day 04: Kathmandu – Lukla 2860m by flight and trek to Phakding 2622m.
Day 05: Phakding – Namche Bazaar 3440m.
Day 06: Namche Bazaar Acclimatization.
Day 07: Namche –Thyangboche Monastery 3867m.
Day 08: Thyangboche – Dingboche 4343m.
Day 09: Dingboche – Island Peak Base camp 5087m.
Day 10: Island Peak high Camp 5087m.
Day 11: Island peak 6189m. Summit & back to Chukkung.
Day 12: Chhukung – Ama Dablam Base 4600m.
Day 13-29: Climbing period for Ama Dablam 6812m.
Day 30: Ama Dablam B. C. – Namche Bazaar.
Day 31: Namche Bazaar – Phakding.
Day 32: Phakding – Lukla then transfer to teahouse Lodge.
Day 33: Lukla – Kathmandu by flight then transfers to Hotel.
Day 34: Kathmandu free.
Day 35: Last minute, transfer to airport for onward journey.
 
Expedition Cost in group joining basis;

US $ / Euro          Per Person
Climbing Sherpa: Per Sherpa US $ 1500 (if required by climber)

Service includes:

• All land transportation: Airport /Hotel/Airport, trekking, expedition pick up & drop.
• 5 Nights Accommodation in Kathmandu at a tourist class Hotel on bed & breakfast plan as per given Itinerary.
• Transport as per itinerary for members, staff and Liaison Officer.
• Transportation of all food and climbing equipments to base camp and back.
• Peak permits fee.
• Full board basis during the trekking.
• All kitchen equipments; kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, shower tent, chairs and tables at the base camp.
• Cook and Kitchen boys at the base camp.
• Base camp tents for members and staff.
• Visa extension.
• Per Person 50 KG. Equipment’s luggage / barrels allowed till to Base Camp.
• Equipment allowance, wages and insurance for base camp staff and Liaison Officer.
• National Park Conservation Fee.
• Air Ticket: KTM/Lukla/KTM with domestic airport tax and cargo fees.
• Satellite phone (Pay calls).
• Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator.
• Helicopter rescue insurance for Nepalese staff.
• Agency service charges.

Service does not include:

• Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
• Airfare from / to your country.
• Nepal entry visa fee. (Can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
• Hotel after 5 nights stay in Kathmandu.
• Service above Base Camp.
• Drinks except tea and coffee.
• Personal climbing gear and equipment above base camp.
• Walki -Takie permit & Satellite phone permit.
• Climbing Guide (Sherpa).
• Oxygen & Mask -regulator for climbing.
• Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical and emergency evacuation.
• Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods arriving to Nepal by air or road.
• Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone, etc.
• International airport departure tax & tourist tax.
• Tips and climbing bonus.
• Garbage deposit US $ 2000.00 for a team. After expedition deposit will be refundable.

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